p1 Standard, right of the Sundeck Boulder is a gully system start leading up to a band layer and belay. p1 "direct" climbs up and right of a roof to small right facing crack ("10a" and a few moves of 5.9 to gain a ledge system that leads right to belay near traditional 1st pitch belay. P2 is really fine thin crack (5.8) leading to base of right facing dihedral. p3 is the meats and bones- 5.9ish to get established into corner then up the bald, slick corner with RP brass nuts if you are lucky (crux is above last good piece about 10'). A better corner leads past a little more 5.9 climbing to a belay. The "John Dugan" takes a right face traverse (PG and 5.9) around the hardest moves in the corner. p4 is a pretty airy pitch leading up to one last belay 5.8. p5 5.6 climbing leads to top past a roof and left facing corner.
Location
Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.
Protection
Brass nuts for original corner, and standard GM rack for balance of route.
FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, free var. Ballie, Roy Smith (John Dugan var. 5.9 A.0)5/71, Direct and free 5.10- A.0 Baxter, Karlstrom '73, Corner (5.10-R) Ajax Green and Chris Reveley 3/76.
The Corner is a tough one to rate. I followed it and thought it was the most physical pitch I've done at GM (my leader Scott DeCapio had back cleaned the John Dugan for me)- and on lead I would have soiled myself in the best of shape. It might be the most committing pitch at GM and maybe harder than the 10- given.
The 5.10R corner is one of the finest pitches I have climbed on Granite Mountain. Climb a short, steep handcrack to a good ledge. Place a good piece (.5 Camalot or Red Alien) and climb strenous, technical stemming and smearing a seam corner. You have to make continous hard moves for about 15-20' past your cam to what I thought was the hardest move to gain a good hold and place gear. A great pitch, but be solid and not for the faint of heart.
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