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The Classic 

5.7

   

FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Lee Dexter, Spring 1968
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Season: Spring or Fall
Views: 1,678 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 15, 2007


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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

The Classic, pitch 2.


Description 

The Classic is pretty much just what it's name implies. It is also the longest, relatively easy, route on the Mountain. As a result, it tends to draw a lot of climbers, so don't be surprised if you have to queue up for this one.

P1) Start over on the left side of the Flying Buttress where it meets the wall. Climb easy ground up to a ledge, then continue in a corner until a band of rock allows a traverse right to more ledges and scramble up to a platform with a tree in the corner.

P2) The Classic Chimney - climb up blocks in the corner to gain the chimney above. Continue up to a nice belay above.

P3) Move left and climb up the crack formed by the flake against the wall, atop the flake, move up and right to gain a foot-wide ledge that runs up the wall. Tiptoe up the ledge passing a couple of small bushes to it's top, then move over to the corner, and pull over into a crack system that runs up and right across the Flying Buttress to it's far top corner.

To get to the top, take either the High Exposure Exit (5.6+) or the Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) exit. You can also work your way down off the top of the Flying Buttress from here to gain the Coke Bottle Rappels, but this is tricky. Please rope up if you do this!

Note: A lot of folks choose to start this route with the first pitch of Reunion (5.7), which is a nice left-facing corner about 20 feet right of the first Crack Lover's Variation pitch.


Location 

Starts near where the left side of the Flying Buttress meets the main wall.


Protection 

Standard rack to 4"



Photos of The Classic Slideshow Add Photo
Baxter leading The Classic, pitch 3.

Baxter leading The Classic, pitch 3.

Jim Donini traversing the top of the Flying Buttress from the Classic to High Exposure Exit (late '70's)

Jim Donini traversing the top of the Flying Buttre...

Anna on the 3rd pitch ramp of the Classic

Anna on the 3rd pitch ramp of the Classic

Heading up pitch 2 - the roof ahead is super fun!

Heading up pitch 2 - the roof ahead is super fun!

At the roof on pitch 2.  Good stuff.

At the roof on pitch 2. Good stuff.

My wife in front of Granite Mtn.  Classic is in the corner of the main face and the buttress.

My wife in front of Granite Mtn. Classic is in th...

High Exposure exit, 5.6

High Exposure exit, 5.6

Mark Sargent at end of 3rd pitch, The Classic

Mark Sargent at end of 3rd pitch, The Classic


Comments on The Classic Add Comment
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By Jodie Bostrom
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.8

I loved this climb! It is a CLASSIC, and Justin and I will do it again. We decided to do a variation on the first pitch just right of Crack Lover's Variation. The third pitch is definitely the money pitch :)

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.7

Due to the number of climbs weaving in and out of this corner, there are a number of variations of the "Classic". Arguably the finest way to climb the Classic is the 1st pitch of Reunion, the 2nd pitch of Cracklover's, the 3rd pitch of Karl's Korner, and the High Exposure exit. Anyway you role- its Classic!

By jayci
Nov 1, 2009

I linked the third pitch with the High Exposure exit for a really nice long pitch. The HE exit is one of the most difficult 5.6 rated pitches I have done in a while. Expect something that feels like solid 5.8. The approach is long and the climbers trail is easy to lose your first time as I found out yesterday. Good climb.

By Greg Opland
Administrator
Nov 1, 2009

The actual third pitch of The Classic route takes a crack line that diagonals across the Flying Buttress to it's far side (away from the main face). You can veer sort of left and go up the last part of Karl's Korner and then continue straight into the HEE (what it sounds like you did). See picture...