Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Middle Section
Show routes:
Select route...
Beaver Cleaver 
C. W. Hicks Direct 
Camptown Races (variation) 
Candyland 
Classic, The 
Coatimundi Whiteout 
Crack Lover's Variation 
Good Action 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The 
Green Savior 
Gunsmoke 
Help Me Mr. Wizard 
Kingpin 
Magnolia Thunderpussy 
Once Upon a Time 
Reunion 
Slammer Jam, The 
Tom's Thumb 
Twin Cracks 
Witblitz 

Help Me Mr. Wizard 

5.11c

   

FA: Stan Mish, Jim Waugh, and Herb North Jr., 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Views: 188 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Nov 13, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Granite Mountain page.

Description 

As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike. It is PG mostly. Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy if I remember correctly. The gear under the wee roof is saucy as well, though it has been personally tested. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Resist the temptation to layback the next section. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Better gear through this section. Eventually you will find yourself at a jug and burly mantle, in that order. Continue up the short slab to a fixed anchor.


Location 

Left side of the Flying Buttress between Reunion and Said and Done.


Protection 

Many small, medium cams, wires, and a runner or two.



Add Comment Comments on Help Me Mr. Wizard
Show which comments
By manuel rangel
From: tempe, az
Dec 8, 2006

I remember a dyno from the disappearing crack to get to the jug. Ouch, that was the place I asked for Mr. Wizard's help.

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Jan 2, 2007

Stan "the Banditto" Mish did the BURLY FA back in the latter 70s or early 80s.

By rickd
May 24, 2007

FA 1978 Mish, Waugh, and Herb North @ 5.11+ (eb's, and no tcu's)

H. Suzuki spent two days at GM and did this route both days- I guess he liked it.