Heather Hayes powers into the crux of Tom's Thumb ...
Description
If you are looking at Green Savior, look just left for a fairly conspicuous tower. On the left side of the tower is a small roof with a fist crack out the left side.
Pitch 1. Climb up fractured, broken rock (kind of spooky) to a belay 15? feet below the roof.
Pitch 2. Climb up rattly rock to roof. Plug some decent gear in and climb out and left. The crack actually gets smaller as you climb and some very nice hand jams await just after the crux. The crack will eventually end in fingers just before the top of it. Rig a gnarly belay.
Pitch 3. The face above has some ancient pins/bolts. The climbing looks great and after some testing of waters with the manky gear we decided to bail. It would be an awesome community service to bring up the handdrill and put a set of anchors ontop the tower, and replace the old bolts... It may also serve as a possible left side decent route.
FA info March 1971, A.4, 5.6 by Hauck, Lovejoy FFA pitch 2, Chris Reveley & Diana Hunter (aka Sly) Nov 1974 @ 5.10 (now 5.11-) FFA var 3rd Jim Waugh & Frank Valendo (Pasta!) @ 5.11-R
Did this route earlier this fall. Everything I heard about the face pitch after the roof sounded really scary so we traversed left to other routes via the Grand Traverse Ledge. Definately carry a #4 Camalot for the crux roof moves.
I suggest Green Savior Direct -> Tom's Thumb -> C.W.Hicks.
A good route, but if you are up to the grade I would reccommend Coatimundi Whiteout over this climb.
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