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Tom's Thumb 

5.11a

   

FA: Tom?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Views: 119 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Nov 13, 2006


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Granite Mountain page.

Heather Hayes powers into the crux of Tom's Thumb ...


Description 

If you are looking at Green Savior, look just left for a fairly conspicuous tower. On the left side of the tower is a small roof with a fist crack out the left side.

Pitch 1. Climb up fractured, broken rock (kind of spooky) to a belay 15? feet below the roof.

Pitch 2. Climb up rattly rock to roof. Plug some decent gear in and climb out and left. The crack actually gets small as you climb and some very nice hand jams await just after the crux. The crack will eventually end in fingers just before the top of it. Rig a gnarly belay.

Pitch 3. The face above has some ancient pins/bolts. The climbing looks great and after some testing of waters with the manky gear we decided to bail. It would be an awesome community service to bring up the handdrill and put a set of anchors ontop the tower, and replace the old bolts... It may also serve as a possible left side decent route.


Location 

Left side Middle section


Protection 

Standard rack, wires, runners.



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By rickd
May 24, 2007

FA info March 1971, A.4, 5.6 by Hauck, Lovejoy
FFA pitch 2, Chris Reveley & Diana Hunter (aka Sly) Nov 1974 @ 5.10 (now 5.11-)
FFA var 3rd Jim Waugh & Frank Valendo (Pasta!) @ 5.11-R