Magnolia Thunderpussy 

FA:  FA: David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck, Jonathan Bjorkland, Oct. 1970 FFA Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy, Scott Baxter, May 1971 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Views: 654 page views Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Nov 13, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Magnolia is definitely on the must do list for GM. On the far left side of the Middle Section, look for a stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a box, and a wee roof for your pleasure. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof you will encounter some 3rd class terrain. I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached. The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb a RT angling crack up dihedral up to hanging flake roof. This part is pretty awesome. Chimney your way out and over. Watch the rope drag on this part. I would also suggest that you continue up a ways if possible to set a belay where it looks like all the technical climbing is down. We unroped many times for the last bit. It is a bit exciting and pretty safe easy climbing. Saves time to get down and onto the next prize.

Location 

Far left side of Middle Section.

Protection 

Standard rack, doubles, wires, runners. No fixed belays.