Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Middle Section
Show routes:
Select route...
Beaver Cleaver 
C. W. Hicks Direct 
Camptown Races (variation) 
Candyland 
Classic, The 
Coatimundi Whiteout 
Crack Lover's Variation 
Good Action 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The 
Green Savior 
Gunsmoke 
Help Me Mr. Wizard 
Kingpin 
Magnolia Thunderpussy 
Once Upon a Time 
Reunion 
Slammer Jam, The 
Tom's Thumb 
Twin Cracks 
Witblitz 

C. W. Hicks Direct 

5.11-

   

FA: Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973 - direct (original A.2 pitch) Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Views: 197 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Nov 12, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Granite Mountain page.

Description 

To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The first pitch does not see much (any?) action and is quite dirty. We avoided the first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up the base of the large dihedral. This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small pro and more strenuous moves out of a slot. I fell on this pitch pulling a small cam out. Very technical if I remember correctly. Will probably feel 11aish, though the grade we had was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot. On the last pitch, climb left to a handcrack and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.


Location 

To the right of the Swamp Slabs past a VERY large dihedral system, C.W. Hicks is the next system right.


Protection 

Standard rack, maybe some extra small wires, steel or brass. Cams from small to large.



Add Comment Comments on C. W. Hicks Direct
Show which comments
By rickd
Dec 13, 2006

full name of route: Charles Wellington Hicks,
FA Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973

direct (original A.2 pitch) Waugh, Ringle, and North 1981

first pitch is quite good and strenuous, but the drilled angle fell out circa 1990 and does not protect for the lb start.

By Larry Coats
Sep 9, 2007

Sorry Rick- but it was named after Charles Wellington Hicks because they thought his name sounded cool. FA: Rusty Baillie and Karl Karlstrom as a 5.9, AO (off a couple of fixed pins that aren't there anymore. Then the rest of your FFA info is correct.

By rickd
Sep 9, 2007

larry-

CW was a pilot:
September 2, 1943...............2nd Lt. Charles W. Hicks.....1 - Me109***

I never meant to imply that he was a member of FA party.

It's Greg's fault the update- blame that guy!