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The traverse under the roof on the "candyland" fin...
Description
Probably the most classic route at Granite Mountain. This is part of the Great Roof section. Start up a slab for approximately 50 feet. Then climb a flake that turns into a left facing corner. There is a two bolt hanging belay at about 120 feet. The next pitch is a steep offwidth and corner to another hanging belay at 160 feet. Climb a short easy 20 foot pitch to the next belay. The next pitch is the crux. Angle to the right and up under the Great Roof. Then jam and smear the crack to the left edge of the roof. The pitch ends after you pull the roof. Belay as soon as possible to avoid rope drag. This is a very exposed belay. The final scramble is up a easy gully, over another small roof, and finished at the triangle shaped boulder. And alternate finish is to link up on Candyland. This keeps the rating down to 5.9+. Descend through the Coke Bottle. Refer to the Climber's Guide to Granite Mountain for topo.
Location
It is advisable to get an early start so you beat the afternoon monsoon showers.
Protection
There are two bolt belays for the first two pitches. Most guides say fingers to #3 camalots. We did use a #4 also.
Some helpful gear beta: At the left side of the Great Roof when pulling the final four foot roof, I think we had a blue camalot and also a red. The blue I remember being crucial. To set the belay above, I think you also need some blue camalots as well. It is an all gear belay. Wild pitch, and probably the most exposure GM has to offer. Did they ever replace those rusted pins with long-lifes?
Sorry if I was not clear that the route finished out of the left side of the route. I am not an expert at adding routes here yet. But I will also second the "Old School Hard" feeling. We did the Candyland linkup and I was still battling to get up it. Exposure is very high.
There are many good "link ups" for this route. The original way is classic, climbing the first two pitches of Candyland then going left out the roof to finish on Coatumundi is awesome, climbing water streak delight is a good one too. Pulling the crux roof on Coatumundi is one of the coolest 5.11's I've ever done.
By manuel rangel From: tempe, az Mar 20, 2007 rating: 5.11c
I did CW a long while ago. I used a #4 friend out the last roof and fell on it quite a bit. Too much rope drag. The final iron cross took a lot out with the rope drag so maybe I'm off on thinking it's harder than 11a, I considered it more like 11c.
In regards to the rumor, I doubt that broken holds could significantly change the rating. The traverse is flaky, but you primarily use the cracks- either as a handrail or underclinging the vertical one above- with smears the primary footholds on the slab below. And the roof goes on jams, as you can see in pic of Heather- locker hands in the connector crack, then a long stretch to the right (or dyno if you are under 5'8" or so as is Heather!) to flared thin hands. The left hand works a thin finger crack, so I don't see broken holds changing it much. A very spectacular and intimidating route- go for it!
I called both Ajax and Dr. Chris R. in 1995 to discuss their "wonder week" at granite mountain. Both had said that freeing the roof was their last project that holiday. They climbed up under the roof in short sleeve shirts but cold weather sent them down to Prescott and away for too long to become the FA party.
they did manage: FA's of Witblitz (10-/10R), Sly's idea (11-), Dream Weaver (11-R), Adam's Rib (11-), and Crack n Up (10R). No RP's, no cams, and clad in EB's. we suck!
Did the Coatimundi-Candyland linkup yesterday. Anyone else find the second pitch of Coatimundi to be a little scary? I got up to the traverse left but it looked like a pretty dangerous fall, and with nothing but those flexing crusty scabs for holds I opted for the straight up way. Had to run it out a little to gain the upper crack but I think if I had brought a new #5 camalot it would have been totally safe. Still hard for 5.9 though! Whew!
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