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Reunion 

5.10-

   

FA: FA: Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield, Aug. 1971 FFA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Nov. 1971
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Season: Mid-July to Feb (outside
Views: 386 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 7, 2006


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Description 

Reunion is an excellent line found on the left side of the Flying Buttress. While the middle two pitches aren't the best in the world, the first is pretty okay, and the last one is maybe the best finger crack on the Mountain! As the story goes, when Baxter freed the last pitch, he went up with a few nuts, and ran out towards the end of the pitch. Facing retreat or pushing ahead, he cast out on the finish and pulled off a stylish ascent in bold style!

Start at a nice left-facing corner leading up to where it joins The Classic at a big ledge with a tree.

Pitch 1) Climb the nice left-facing corner (5.7), move left near the top and then continue to big ledge with tree.

Pitch 2) Climb up the corner behind the tree as if starting the Classic Chimney pitch, but break right out across the crack and slab leading out right to the base of a big block and a bolted semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 3) Climb left side of block (5.9+). The start is awkward and it's hard initially to get pro, but the finish is awkward as well, so it's consistent. Watch out that you don't fall off and land on your belayer!! Climb up to belay below the last finger crack pitch. This pitch is only about 40-45 feet or so.

Pitch 4) Climb the incredible-looking hockey-stick-shaped finger crack on the left side of the slab. Can't miss it. Excellent pitch!!!! This will put you atop the Flying Buttress. Do either the High Exposure Exit, the Beaver Cleaver, or descend to the Coke Bottle raps from here.


Location 

Left side of the Flying Buttress, starting below a left-facing corner system just right of a tree (same start as the Crack Lovers Variation of The Classic).


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By rickd
May 11, 2007

it should be known that Baxter exited the 4th pitch crack to the left, and went up the arete instead of the right angle crack. Chris Raypole I was told repeated this feat in the late 1980's.
...and the third pitch is a 2 star at best.
said and done to reunion to beaver cleaver is THE flying buttress line.