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DescriptionThe Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.
Getting ThereAccess for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Section:
The Classic 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
Green Savior 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.9- Trad
Crack Lover's Variation 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II
Reunion 5.10- Trad, 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
The Slammer Jam 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
Kingpin 5.10 PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Candyland 5.10 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Coatimundi Whiteout 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches
Featured Route For Middle Section
Kingpin 5.10 PG13 AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section
This is a great line that links some prominent features up the steep section left of the Great Roof. This line gives a taste of everything. Technical stemming, splitter jamming, exposed face wandering, and cruiser giant corner at the top.Pitch 1. Scramble up and into a left facing dihedral via cracks and ramps to belay on perch. Pitch 2. The gear on this pitch is small maybe PG13. Technical (burly) stemming and some thin gear will take you up...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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