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Middle Section

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Beaver Cleaver 
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Middle Section

Submitted By: Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006
Administrator: Greg Opland
Elevation: 6,500 feet
Views: 11,868 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the Granite Mountain page.

The Flying Buttress


Description 

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

  • This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.


Getting There 

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.



Featured Route For Middle Section
Larry Coats and Gordon Douglass on Slammer Jam 2nd pitch (mid-70's)

The Slammer Jam 5.10  AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section
This is another of the stoic straight faced 5.10s at GM. This line starts off the second belay of the Classic however you want to get to that point. Pitch 1 (3 total)Climb out onto the left wall via jam crack and continue up and left into another system and follow it until you can traverse right to a small belay stance above corner. 5.8.Pitch 2. Climb crack to move left into a left facing corner that arches to the left. Follow that to an open ...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Middle Section
Scott Baxter on the Front Porch

Scott Baxter on the Front Porch

Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey (circa 1978)

Old times on the Front Porch (L to R) Paul Davidso...

Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the first "no hands" ascent (note that Phil lost his hands in a Civil War re-enactment!)

Philipo Condrey rappelling Coke Bottle after the f...