This is the chaotic maze of domes that surrounds scenic Watson Lake. Picture parts of Joshua Tree NP under 30 feet of water. Rock is similar to that described in the High Rappel section, although in places it can be a bit better. Most of the routes are located on the lake's west shore. Several long ridges of rock radiate from this shoreline, all have climbing potetnial. A few routes have been done on the rocks below the dam and on the far east shore.
Getting There
About 3 1/2 miles north of Prescott along HWY 89 there is a new traffic circle where the highway intersects Willow Lake Rd. On the east side of the circle is the enterance to Watson Lake Park. There is a $2 day use fee if you plan to park inside the park (an annual pass is available from the city's Rec. Dept.) Or you can park along the highway and then walk in to avoid the day use fee. To reach the West Shore and Dam areas park at the northern-most parking lot above the north boat ramp. A trail from this lot leads north over a ridge and then down to an unused dirt road, when the road curves left (west) continue north over rock through some narrow slots along the western end of the ridges described above. Alternately, trails lead north from the boat ramp above the lake shoreline to access the eastern ends of the ridges and the Dam. To reach the east shore areas you can boat across (rentals are often avail. on weekends or bring your own) or park at the Peavine Trailhead and hike in. To reach the Peavine Trail drive north from Prescott, and turn right (east) onto Prescott Lakes Pkwy, move to the left lane and make the very first left onto Sundog Ranch Rd., and then make your first left into the trailhead parking area. The Peavine Trail will take you directly to the rocks that line the east shore. The trail is on an old railroad bed and is very level the whole way. About 30-40 minute hike or 10 -15 bike.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Watson Lake:
Just got back from three days of climbing in this area.
There are no access issues at all at this time, and this area is beautiful, fun climbing.
All the fixed hardware is in great condition. With the exception of one day during the week we had the place to ourselves the entire time.
As is typical this time of year, afternoon thunderstorms can shorten your day, but one can easily get in four hours of climbing without getting up at the crack of dawn.
Guidebooks:
Coverage is light in Rock Climbing Arizona by Stewart M. Green. If you can, get to Granite Mountain Outfitters (the only local climbing store left, on Gurley Street just past the town square), and see if they have a copy of Prescott Bouldering by Bill Cramer. Despite the title, it covers a lot of trad, sport, and top rope climbs as well and adds many routes and areas all over Prescott. It seems the Third Edition (2006) is the most current.
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