Great, classic, historic route. I believe a R rating is now applicable do to the spacing and unreliability of the pins on pitch one. Hard for 10b, but an amazing route. first 5.10 in Prescott. Pitch 2 is a splitter finger to hand to offwitdth with lots of holds, to final runout to the anchors. Starts in a groove off of a ledge on the left side of the cliff, below the obvious licheny crack up top.
Protection
small to large, nuts. a runner to tie off pin on pitch 1. a couple screamers could also add some courage. dont forget to have some huevos too!
The first pitch is sporty and protected with glued pins. This flaring, wide, slopey, groove is really no fun. However, the second pitch is one of the best on the wall as far as trad goes. Not to be missed.
By Luke Wakefield From: Prescott, Az Feb 27, 2009 rating: 5.10 PG13
The first pitch has committing climbing over old pins. Not so sporty. Try the shallow crack just left of here to gain access to the second pitch if you're not feeling up to it.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 20, 2009 rating: 5.10 R
Historical Note: Lovejoy caught Royal Robbins on a lead fall on the 1st pitch of this climb on the FA. Also Prescott's first 5.10.
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