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Big Bulge Easy 
Big Undercling 
Broken Rubber 
Cracked Face 
Left Arete, Small Upper 
Left-Right Traverse - Small Upper Boulder 
Main Upper Prow Jug to Left 
Main Upper Prow Jug to Right 
Middle Inside Corner, Lower 
Negative, The 
No Feet Traverse 
North Arete - Big Lower Boulder 
Northwest Face - Big Lower Boulder 
One Move Wonder 
Right Dihedral 
Roof Problem 

One Move Wonder 

V7

   

FA: 
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V7 [details]
Views: 216 page views

Submitted By: Tommy Wilson on Feb 14, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

One of the best lines/single moves in Tucson despite its somewhat diminutive description in the guidebook. From the sit, manage a pair of slanted crimps and make a long move up and right to a positive shark tooth hold. Control the mega swing and finish left (1 pad) or right (pads+spotter). Very powerful and very satisfying.


Location 

Obvious sit down line on the overhung west face of the lower boulder.


Protection 

Pads



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By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2008

Two stars for Broken Rubber, a Tucson classic, and four stars for this??

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 15, 2008

I think it's safe to say that one person's classic might be another person's pile. I just call 'em like I see. In this case, I like One Move Wonder better than Broken Rubber despite the latter's supposed 'classicness'. And it is not like simple words in an online text effect the perceived quality for other people. You climb, you decide.

"edited as per guideline #1"

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 15, 2008

Sorry, I was only wondering... I know opinions are subjective, but I was just a little bit in disbelief on this one. After all, this problem is, as per your description, a "one move wonder." No harm intended.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2008

lol. yeah. I tend to be long-winded and passionate about...well... everything. I'm not in any way mad, but I'm not sure how else to respond to a query about climbing aesthetics. And in any case, have you been on Broken Rubber? It's essentially a one move wonder as well. Only difference is the crux holds are encased in a thick shell of enamel. Even if that wasn't the case, the 'move' on One Move Wonder is still far better in my opinion.

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 17, 2008

I have to admit you're right about Broken Rubber, but I do really like the problem nonetheless - good line, good position, awesome moves throughout. And actually, I realized that I'm not exactly sure what problem you're referring to with One Move Wonder. Initially I thought you were talking about that line on the same face as BR starting on the left, but re-reading the description I'm not sure... is this that problem in the middle of the big face around the corner from Broken Rubber? If so I've never tried the SDS, just the traverse in from the left (which is a pretty rad easy line IMO), and I'd like to jump on it next time I'm in town. Cheers.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 17, 2008

Yup. Around the corner. Good crimp for the right hand and a crappy block thing for the left. It's sweet and highly recommended :) Cheers back at ya.