The guide book says start in jug, traverse to end of shelf and mantle. So Here's my version:
Start matched in the obvious big jug (on the W-SW face of the main lower boulder) and traverse out right along the slightly slopey shelf past one dihedral to another shelf section and to another big jug. You can end it in this big jug and mantle there, or continue on to the next slopey shelf and go up and top out the boulder.
This problem requires lots of arm strength and endurance and ingenuity in placing the feet.
I figured it was overrated, but I just put the guidebook rating anyway. Maybe I was reading it wrong. It's still a fun problem though.
By Tommy Wilson From: Tucson, AZ Feb 14, 2008 rating: V3
hard without having the feet dialed and the gaston/transition move felt pretty difficult first go. would have believed it was a v5 on day 1, but several logged laps convinces me otherwise.
I did this thing once a long time ago, but have yet to repeat it. I think the crux is making the move from the last big jug where mantling is an option into the dihedral on the right. Just too pumped out... maybe next time...
Edit: I think what I am talking about is doing the traverse and then going into what is called "the right dihedral" on this site. Maybe it's only V3, but it has a learning curve.
Gate's Pass
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