Self portrait on an easy (V0-) but aestheic arete.
Description
Gate's Pass, best known for its spectacular sunsets, is also your best bet for some bouldering close to downtown Tucson. The area containing the boulders, while not part of Gate's Pass proper, is actually quite nice in the winter months.
There are enough boulders close to the road to keep you busy for a day, with established problems from V0 to V7. There are likely many more problems to be found, depending on how far uphill you are willing to walk. One can only assume that the short season and abundance of better rock on Mt Lemmon has limited climber's interest here. Still it's a nice place to spend a day when temps are right.
Gate's Pass provides a great opportunity to climb in a true Sonoran Desert setting, among some of the best saguaro stands in the world. It is also thick with evil jumping cholla and rattlesnakes, so be extra careful, especially with pets around. Don't forget to stick around for the sunset!
For a topo and handful of established problems, see the Arizona section at www.drtopo.com. Photos can be viewed at www.tucsonbouldering.com. You can also pick up a copy of tyler McMillen's new Tucson Bouldering guidebook at Summit Hut.
Getting There
Driving time 15 min. from Downtown Tucson.From Tucson, drive west on Speedway Blvd into the Tucson Mountains. Drive past Gate's Pass and down the steep hill. Park at the second pullout on the right or left.
The boulders should be visible from the road. They are located on the south side of the road (your left driving down from Gates Pass). Find trails leading up hill to the boulders. Please stick to established trails.
By Erik Murdock From: Tucson, Arizona Nov 11, 2005
Someone placed two bolts on top of the large upper boulder with the sweet overhanging section. These boulders have been climbed for a LONG time without these bolts. The advent of pads has made the landings safer so there is absolutely no need to toprope a 12 foot boulder. Beside the fact that there is no need for these bolts, they are poorly placed and are both spinners. I am certainly not against bolts, but these are lame and unnecessary. If you really want a TR, you could sling the boulder or use a slingshot setup. If you have placed these bolts, please remove them. I will bring a wrench with me next time I go out to Gates Pass and the hangers will be re-used on Mt. Lemmon or the Stronghold.
By Erik Murdock From: Tucson, Arizona Feb 17, 2006
Jon, are you thinking of the lower boulder? Regardless, the newest set of bolts on the upper boulder were not where Murray placed bolts and they were half hanging out of the rock. Have you seen them for yourself?
By brad schierer From: your imagination Jul 24, 2006
i agree, the bolts should be chopped.
By Andrew Ryder From: Flagstaff/Tucson, AZ Sep 6, 2007
Some of the OTD routes on the big lower boulder can be toproped using the bolt mentioned above; access it easily by scrambling up the south (far) side of the boulder.