Joanne Urioste cruising pitch one of The Groover. ...
Description
The climb follows a huge groove in the southeast buttress, look for a large roof 50' above the ground. Squeeze thru the roof and end up on the crux on pitch 3. It's a choice between wide hands or pro, I go for pro. Stem thru and voila.
Location
Look for the huge roof at the bottom of a groove on the left of courthouse rock. Just 200yds left of the mountaineers route.
Protection
standard rack from fingers thru #4 camalot; two bolts on each of the first three pitches with anchors. Last two pitches are 200' each with only one bolt between them.
The first three pitches are great! I was a little apprehensive leading the third pitch (a short section of 5.10c/d) due to the rock quality, but it was all there.
The first 3 pitches are good, after that it's just to get to top, pretty grungy. The crux is well protected and a fun, short move. The location and scenery are great.
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