Joanne Urioste cruising pitch one of The Groover. ...
Description
The climb follows a huge groove in the southeast buttress, look for a large roof 50' above the ground. Squeeze thru the roof and end up on the crux on pitch 3. It's a choice between wide hands or pro, I go for pro. Stem thru and voila.
Location
Look for the huge roof at the bottom of a groove on the left of courthouse rock. Just 100yds left of the mountaineers route.
Protection
standard rack from fingers thru #4 camalot; two bolts on each of the first three pitches with bolted anchors. Last two pitches are 200' each with only one bolt between them; go right at end of 4th pitch to find belay bolt. Rappel Mountaineer's Route with double ropes.
The first three pitches are great! I was a little apprehensive leading the third pitch (a short section of 5.10c/d) due to the rock quality, but it was all there.
The first 3 pitches are good, after that it's just to get to top, pretty grungy. The crux is well protected and a fun, short move. The location and scenery are great.
By Robin like the bird From: mountain center ,CA Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d R
can anybody tell me about how many pitches to expect, and what the grade of those pitches are?
The first three pitches are @ 90'; pitch 4 is easy 5th and a chimney that widens, belay on ledge on the right w/bolt on right wall; pitch 5 is easy 5th on wider chimney/gulley to the last 5th class portion, go to end of 60m rope and belay off gear. 4th to top and walk north to mtneers route/gulley. Look for cairns marking the rap route; double ropes.
Never saw that typo before... I just checked my original map and it says "Exit 81", so it happened during editing. The editors redid all the text on my maps and topos after I sent them in.
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