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Whale Dome
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Dem Bones 
Moby Dick 
South Face 
Trojan, The 

South Face 

5.7+ X

   

FA: Kip Metzger and ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Views: 616 page views

Submitted By: Jerry Cagle on Nov 2, 2003


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Mark about halfway up the first pitch.


Description 

Between Moby Dick and Dem Bones:

P1: Start by the Madrone tree just up from the _guard_ rock near the bottom of the Moby Dick gully. Follow the quasi-buttress, chicken-headed path to a good ledge and belay here on gear.

P2: Follow the chicken head highway till it runs out (breathe...) then run it out to a semi-hanging stance on very large chicken heads.

P3: Continue upward along the path of least resistance to another good ledge.

P4: Continue up the direct route on giant c-h's till they run out. Prepare for an extremely long run out heading for the dike composed of large knife-like plates then laterally to the left to the belay station (two bolts) on the last pitch of Moby Dick.

P5: Finish on the last pitch of Moby Dick


Protection 

Take slings for chicken head hiking and small to medium stoppers, tri-cams, and Aliens.



Add Photo Photos of South Face
Bill starting the first pitch. Squeezing under the branch makes the first few feet harder.

Bill starting the first pitch. Squeezing under the...

Mark placing a low ball (his first piece) about 20 feet up the third pitch. A fall here will pendulum into the belayer.

Mark placing a low ball (his first piece) about 20...

Looking down the second pitch. The first belay is the top of the big flake just above mid photo. A 15 foot sling around the point of it serves as the anchor.

BETA PHOTO: Looking down the second pitch. The first belay is ...

A cool shot of Bill on the third pitch. If it wasn't for the 25 MPH winds it would have been a perfect day.

A cool shot of Bill on the third pitch. If it wasn...

Mark starting up the third pitch. It traverses right to ascend the steep chickenheads on the right side of the photo. Easy climbing but don't fall or you'll kill your belayer!

BETA PHOTO: Mark starting up the third pitch. It traverses rig...

Mark finishing up the 4th pitch. Easy runout climbing. As you can see by the large amount of slack I couldn't keep up with his climbing.

Mark finishing up the 4th pitch. Easy runout climb...


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By Wes Turner
Aug 25, 2004

not a grade III

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 26, 2004
rating: 5.7+ PG13

P4 can be done by traversing farther to the right instead of taking the direct route. This is slightly steeper but no scarey runouts; chickenheads can be used for protection.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2004

So is it a grade II or IV?

By Forest Hill
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 30, 2004

I've never even done the route, but there's no way anything on Whale Dome is bigger than Grade II.

By Wes Turner
Oct 3, 2004

Grade II...i should have been more specific...not grade III and no way grade IV

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2006

I corrected the Grade.