It is not quite as good as Coati Corner, but it means you now have two good pitches to do if you get down early. This climb was drilled ground up with a few hook placements or dubious cams used so we could haul the drill up. Then we each lead it to get the first and second free ascents. The crux fifteen feet below me takes balance then power as the feet go away for a move or two on pockets.
We went back and climbed this route again, after a couple of Flagstaff lads claimed it was only 5.10d. While a can't agree with the .10d I will say it's no harder than 5.11a. So we were having a bad day, we did drill it ground up.....maybe we were tired after lugging the drill???