BETA PHOTO: Waterfall dome viewed from the road. Malex is appr...
Description
Right and below the large double roof system, there is a smaller roof system. Belay under a large right facing and curving flake/fin that takes large pro. Work up this flake and onto the face under a small(2ft high x 6ft wide) roof. go above this and climb easy jugs to a large right facing diagonal roof. Belay here. Second pitch starts right of the diagonal roof and works up and right eventually turning a corner(below a large steep square face cut) and working up a right facing dihedral with a large finger crack. Belay at the tree with a large fist crack under it. Then either solo or belay a chickenhead 3rd pitch to the top about 5.3 for 30 ft. Walk of the 4th class chickheaded west/southwest slab.
really 2 pitches + hike up and off.
Protection
Standard rack up to #4 camalot, with doubles in 1-2 inch pieces.
Historical Note
It has been suggested by Dave DeChamps(sp?) that this route was done earlier by Dave Baker and others. Although no name or year info has been given.
According to DDC this was an old Dave Baker et al. route done prior to Strassman & Ayers ascent. Apparently this error was reported in the Kerry guide.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Oct 24, 2007
I have heard that too. But I will just leave the FA and name as is until another route name and more confirmation on an earlier ascent is given. Either way, it is a route worth doing if you want a shorter moderate multipitch trad route.
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