The Wasteland 

The route-finding on this route is highly inobvious, especially the first pitch. The descent too is unusually tricky. One's best bet for the first time up this route is to go with someone who has done it before.

I agree; route finding on the first pitch is difficult. For P1 I would suggest that climbers look up and right for a clump of grasses NEAR the start of the diagonal crack of P2 (viewable in February, anyway- likely viewable any time of the year). This provides an objective; climb whatever way (safely) possible to achieve the small ledge associated with this clump of grasses).

And, when Bill and I did this a few days ago, we choose different belay stances than that listed above. We made P3 shorter (by belaying in the scoop at the bottom of the short face/corner and just above (20 ft) the step across) and P4 longer.

This is a great multipitch adventure climb with some excellent sections of plates and chickenheads. The chimney pitch/step across is cool. The higher you go, the better it gets. My ropegun partner fired off the trickiest and most committing pitches so I could sit back and enjoy the views. One note. There are two sets of rappel anchors at the top. Use the ones back and left that drop into the gulley.

Wasteland 5.8 6P **** - Cochise Stronghold - Arizona

It's easy to identify Wasteland Pinnacle from the primitive campground near the Forest entrance. Looking directly west is the most impressive rock face with three vertical lichen streaks, and a generally flat top. To its right is a forested saddle. From the broad summit follow skyline left, dropping off the summit to a formation behind. Continuing left is Wasteland Pinnacle with a 400 foot drop on its left. The Pitch 3 chimney is facing you, at the bottom of the pinnacle, near the left side, below the faint black color. Pitch 4 traversing roof begins near the left side and continues right and slightly upward. Pitch 6 takes the low angle arete at the top left.

Now situated at the base of the route, the climbing route begins on a large dirt ledge, shaded by a gorgeous twin trunk tree. To orient for Pitch 1, there's a Right Facing Corner that is heavily right leaning; Pitch 1 always remains clearly left of this.

Pitch 1: Go left and up, shooting for a small clump of cactus 40 feet up, at the top of a very short Right Facing Corner. Pull a bulge to a large ledge. There's a natural arch to sling on this ledge, just past the cactus. Now trend up and right to a second ledge, and again to a larger ledge to belay.

Pitches 2-4 as written in the Description above. Beware Pitch 3 will have rope drag, you may want to split it up.

Pitch 5: Traverse left and slightly down, beneath the roof, until close to the let end of the roof. Belay near where there are two small holes/pits/huecos at your feet and a large round scoop in the wall above.

Pitch 6: Climb the small roof near the round scoop, then go right and up the steep heavily featured short dihedral, gaining a large ledge. Step left and ascend the rounded arete past a bolt ot the summit.

Alternative Descent: This is direct and simple, dropping you 100 feet up the main gulley from your packs. However, we may have been lucky, as some of the rope pulls do not look statistically friendly. Alternative Rappel: Find the rap anchor hangers that are far right. Double rope rappel over an impressive overhang to rap anchor hangers equipped with cord, webbing, and rap rings. Double rope rappel to a slab, you may use a provisional rap station that is right and slightly up the slab, or traverse left 40 feet to another pair of rap anchor hangers. It may be a safer rope pull from the provisional rap station. Either way, a third double rope rappel reaches the ground. Your packs are just 100 feet down this loose upper gulley.

if not for the bad rope drag on the upper pitches, this route would be a 4 star outing.

Seems like everyone has a different way of doing this one. We did it in 5 pitches instead of six. We did not get bad rope drag at all, and we didn't clip any bolts. I think the circuitous nature of the upper climbing keeps me from suggesting the full 4 stars.

Pitch 4 (traversing under the first roof) is one of the best easy trad pitches I have ever led. Good continuous climbing and good exposure.

We also rapped the backside slightly different and ended right at the packs (nice!!!!).

Hope to have more beautiful climbing days like today out in the Stronghold very soon.

Are the traversing pitches on this route safe to follow for a second who doesn't lead and who will be at or close to her limit on 5.8, but is otherwise comfortable with the "long multi-pitch in a remote setting" routine?