Everlasting Gobstopper 5.10b/c
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FA: D Allan New Route: Yes Type: Sport Consensus: 5.10c [details] Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet Season: Year Round Views: 250 page views
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Aug 13, 2009
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"....You can suck'em and suck'em and suck'em but t...
Description First route right of Cracker Jack (mixed crack). Route opens with challenging 10b/c moves, then jug haul section to half way point up to a roomy ledge. From the ledge, face climbing brings you to the very fun finishing roof move. Not the most sustained route on the wall but very fun and well-protected.
Location Fifth route from left or first one right of obvious 30' crack system.
Protection Bolts, chain anchors
Comments on Everlasting Gobstopper
By Mike Diesen From: Sierra Vista, AZ Aug 23, 2009 Someone added a bolt so a CAM is no longer needed.
By Brigette From: Tucson, Arizona Nov 9, 2009 rating: 5.11a I vote 5.11a on this route, based on the impossible-for-anyone-under-6' move before the roof. Tons of fun, otherwise.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Nov 10, 2009 isn't it forbidden to put up a stronghold route rated 11a or harder unless you've been climbing there for more than 10 years? :)
By The Boodge From: Tucson, Az Nov 17, 2009 rating: 5.10b Plus, it's not even close to 11a by Cochise or Mt Lemmon standards...regardless of height/reach.
By Brigette From: Tucson, Arizona 6 days ago rating: 5.11a Geir: It wasn't put up as an 11a. Someone knocked off the block that enabled mortals to reach that high hold. Boodge: Did *you* knock that block off. ;)
By The Boodge From: Tucson, Az 6 days ago rating: 5.10b Nope...that sucks though. I can see how it must be harder now. You could always dyno!
By Brigette From: Tucson, Arizona 5 days ago rating: 5.11a By "you", you mean "one", right? Because I'm quite certain that someone other than me could dyno to that less-than-juggy hold. I'd actually like to try this route again, if anyone's up for it.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az 4 days ago "There are no reach problems, only power problems." That only applies if you're Lynn Hill though :-)