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Zagnut 

Zagnut 

5.11c

   

FA: Daryl
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 337 page views

Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Feb 1, 2009


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A Fly's Demise


Description 

Pull over a small overhang down low, up to another 7 foot or so ceiling half way up then up a short, right-leaning dihedral to a few more face climbs to finish it off. Runner the draw in the corner under the big roof or even pull it after clipping the next ceiling edge bolt to reduce rope drag up top. Also, consider runnering the draw just above the big roof.


Location 

First route right of Payday. Starts up the left side of the black water stain.


Protection 

11 bolts to chain anchor, 60m rope.



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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 27, 2009

Climbed this again today trying to figure out how to improve the rope drag which can be horrendous at the top; here's the verdict:
-Skip the bolt under the big ceiling or remove after clipping the edge
-Runner the first bolt past the roof edge bolt

Both will completely eliminate drag up top; either one will help quite a bit.

By Mike Dudley
From: Tucson
Mar 1, 2009

Only climbed this on toprope but the climb is awesome and very sustained. Very fun can't wait to lead it.