Angel Pulling roof on first lead just after he fin...
Description
Fun climbing up the face of the detached block right of Whatchamacallit. Follows bolts up the crux face to where the rock pinches off. Pull roof and continue up bolts. Make very exposed step over next roof then cruise easy face to anchors. Be sure to stay out of the grungy rock around the left corner.
This is a very fun and exposed climb but really watch yourself between the second and third bolt. And make sure you belayer is paying attention. If you blow the third clip and your belayer is asleep there is a potential to deck.
Location
Right of Whatchamacallit is a detached block. Climb starts just left of the center of the face and then up to the left side.
By Mike Dudley From: Tucson Jan 24, 2009 rating: 5.8
Very fun route. Watch yourself between the second and third bolts, the holds are there but they can be hard to find. Stick to the left above the second bolt for a little easier climbing.
By Mike Diesen From: Sierra Vista, AZ Jan 31, 2009
The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 8, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
Someone added a [third] bolt...no more "runout". The nerve of some people! =)
No kidding, someone just up and added another bolt without asking?
People there are rules, no matter how loose they sometimes appear to be!
If it's not your route and you wnat to change it in some way how's about asking the FAist?? He or she might just say "OK go for it". Or they might say "no way leave it alone", which you should then do!!!!!
I guess I have to make another scary route :) HMMMM I wonder who put the bolt because I found out after the fact? Could it had been grani Mike hmmmm :) Hey...guys have fun and I can't wait to climb again...you guys have to see the potential that is over here. I guess on my standards is going to be a 5.7
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 15, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
The interesting part of this story is i haven't seen Brigette in a couple months.
Now I'm confused... The really, really interesting part is: Why would someone say they'd added a bolt if it wasn't them?
Only slightly less interesting is the fact that I've never met Daryl. Why haven't I ever met Daryl?
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 20, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
I met you a weekend or two before you dogged me on that photo belaying wo a helmet. In fact, you were belaying someone from that same spot [goodnplenty] when i met you. Must have been a heckuva night. ;)
All, don't fret over the bolt. It was a concerted effort and the FA is well aware; all involved parties have his eternal blessings. Thanks, Jimbo, for manning the Phalanx.. always nice to have a good deck gunner on your side!
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