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Hot Tamale 

5.10b/c

   

FA: Mike Diesen, Daryl Allen
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 626 page views

Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009


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Angel following Mike's lead up HT...


Description 

Steep sustained and pumpy climbing up overhanging rock with minimal rests. After 70 feet take rest before pulling last 20 foot section to anchors. From anchors step left on very thin face past a couple more bolts. Cruise last section on easier ground to top. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top. Otherwise make 2 60 meter rappels back down. Could scramble to the top and walk off to the North.


Location 

The bolted line up the right side of the obvious alcove.


Protection 

bolts. midpoint anchors @ 90ft and top anchors



Photos of Hot Tamale Slideshow Add Photo
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...

Angel following Mike's lead up HT...

Angel following Mike's lead up HT...

Angel following Mike's lead up HT...

Mike belaying from top anchors of Hot Tamale.

Mike belaying from top anchors of Hot Tamale.

Top Rope Princess Amy going up the great Hot Tamale.

Top Rope Princess Amy going up the great Hot Tamal...

Amy getting to the crux

Amy getting to the crux

Amy happy to pull the crux

Amy happy to pull the crux

John near the end of "Hot Tamale"

John near the end of "Hot Tamale"


Comments on Hot Tamale Add Comment
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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b

The most sustained route on the wall IMHO. Great for running laps to build up hand strength!

By The Boodge
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Great route, Daryl. It's cleaning up nicely - there seems to be less temporary holds on this one that on some of the others.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
6 days ago
rating: 5.10-

Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
6 days ago

ccmski wrote:
Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...


Possible explanations:
1) All bolts are in the first 50 feet,
2) Elves unclip the bolts at random intervals,
3) Half of the bolts are "trick bolts" attached only with velcro.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
5 days ago
rating: 5.10a/b

Beats me.. no recollection of how or why i did that. Fixed!

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
5 days ago

... 4) honest mistake. :)

By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
5 days ago

Actually, I could see a pg13. If you blow the 3rd clip you could split you nuts wide open on the pointed ledge just below the 2nd bolt. I already did that. That's why I have no more balls!!! :-)

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
5 days ago

ouch!! i vote for an x rating.