Where's the crux ? Ha ha ha...... The crux is not blowing beets at the top of the first pitch.
A rarely done squeeze/offwidth.
Good warm up for 2nd pitch of Abra. Or maybe Abra is a good warm up for this ?
I believe the first lead was Mark Axen but someone should check on that. It has more the feel of a Dave Baker lead. But Mark pointed it out to me in 1976 and told us (Jim Haisley and I) that we had just bagged the second ascent. We were down from Flagstaff for a Beanfest (actually not really a beanfest yet, still a Rich Thompson Climbers Fest) and it was early afternoon and it looked like an obvious line. I think I was wearing blue RRs.
I recall wanting more gear as I grunted up it.
I also recall that even though it was early/mid October, the sun was blazing hot and baking the face as I shaked away 20 ft from the last sideways 2 point 11 hex.
The name is right on.
Save it for a cloudy day in cool weather.
Location
The obvious arching crack on the left hand side of Stronghold dome's main east face.
You can't miss it. If it looks like a nasty squeeze/offwidth, then you've found it.
Protection
I'd imagine a rack big bros, etc... would be nice. We had #11 hexes and maybe a tube chock.
Paul, your feeling was right; FA was Dave Baker and Mike McEwan. Apparently back at that time Mike was hooked on the chicken seasoning of the same name.
"Or maybe Abra is a good warm up for this?," I would say so!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Jan 5, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Good route! Crux seemed to be the first 15 feet, so drop a couple of cams in (3" size) at the base to keep you and your belayer from taking a roller off the ledge in case of mishaps.
The actual route takes 4" gear until about 2/3rds height were it opens up enough for a Wild Country #6 cam. Pro is real good and this would only get a PG rating if you were doing it on passive pro. I placed 4 or so cams in the #3.5 to #4 Camalot range and then one #6 Wild Country up near the top. I had 2 of the #5 Wild Country cams with me, but they were too big to place in the business section, and were not used.
I belayed in the chimney for the end of the first pitch. It is an obvious pod where you can stuff a thigh into the crack and if you have any gear left, a #5 or #6 Wild Country cam will provide a poor backup. Something in the 2.5" to 3.5" size would be a better alternative at this belay. We did not do the second pitch, and opted to rap off in the twilight from a super sketch anchor of a slung horn, a suspect finger of fractured rock, and a wired stopper. BOOOOTY!!!!!! Go get it!
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