Shake N Bake 

Paul, your feeling was right; FA was Dave Baker and Mike McEwan. Apparently back at that time Mike was hooked on the chicken seasoning of the same name.

Good route! Crux seemed to be the first 15 feet, so drop a couple of cams in (3" size) at the base to keep you and your belayer from taking a roller off the ledge in case of mishaps.

The actual route takes 4" gear until about 2/3rds height were it opens up enough for a Wild Country #6 cam. Pro is real good and this would only get a PG rating if you were doing it on passive pro. I placed 4 or so cams in the #3.5 to #4 Camalot range and then one #6 Wild Country up near the top. I had 2 of the #5 Wild Country cams with me, but they were too big to place in the business section, and were not used.

I belayed in the chimney for the end of the first pitch. It is an obvious pod where you can stuff a thigh into the crack and if you have any gear left, a #5 or #6 Wild Country cam will provide a poor backup. Something in the 2.5" to 3.5" size would be a better alternative at this belay. We did not do the second pitch, and opted to rap off in the twilight from a super sketch anchor of a slung horn, a suspect finger of fractured rock, and a wired stopper. BOOOOTY!!!!!! Go get it!

Try here for more info too: widefetish.com/routes/shake_bake/shake_bake.html

Nice update and pics Russ.

I'll even add in another wire to someone who'll grab Russ's booty.
(Assuming you climb the wide crack to get to to it; raps from above don't count.)

Great rock and solid 5.9 climbing on this asthetic line. Drastically easier than Abra's OW.

Pitch 1 (5.9+, 100'): I found most of the climbing on the first pitch to consist heavily of left-hand fist jams and right-foot edges, with knee-rests as needed. Most of the crack contains enough subtle features inside and out to reduce thrutching. Also, well protected where you want it to be.

Pitch 2: Mostly chickenheading along the crack until the water streak, where moving up (old bolt) and left leads to a gear belay by a boulder (5.7, 150') or stretch the rope to belay on top. This pitch doesn't take gear as well as the first but is not unusual by Stronghold standards.

Russ' gear beta is great; here's what we used:
(1).5-1, 3.5, 5 BD; 5,6 WC
(2 ea.) 2,3,4 BD, 4 WC
med nuts
runners

To gain the Beeline raps: walk up slabs until it is possible to scrable down to the boulders below. Continue down to rappel slings around a large chockstone. A single 60M will reach a pine and another short rap. A 70 would probably reach the ground in one. Don't get stuck!

One final note, mid-50s with a l/s shirt felt perfect in the sun.