Big Time 

FA:  unknown, 1991 Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  3 pitches, 250 feet Views: 379 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 24, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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I am at the first belay in the white shirt. James...

Description 

Another good route which can be done in 3 pitches or in 2.

Approach Stronghold dome via the standard trail. You will see a striking roof on the south end of the East face, perhaps 70 feet off of the ground. just left of this corner is a blunt bolted arete which leads up from the ground past he roof and then up to a standing rib of rack to the summit. P1a: 5.10c, 50'. Climb the left hand side of the arete past a line of bolts to an optional belay about 50' off of the ground. This is the hardest pitch of this route.

P1b: 5.9, 50'. Climb an offwidth flake from the right side of the arete up and left to cross the arete just blow a 2-bolt optional belay (same as P1a) and belay here (optional).

P2: 5.10a, 90'. Climb straight up past a few bolts, through a runout (or past a placement or two) and up left of the big roof and crack above that to reach a second 2-bolt belay below a small bulge.

P3: 5.8 90'. Step up and right off of the belay to reach a crack (gear) and ascend. If you are doing this route on bolts alone, you can step left to climb one of the two bolts at the belay of an adjacent route if you want to. Work up the wall for a short while, then cross left to reach the base of a rib of rack to your left, climbing onto it at the bottom and continuing up and left to a bolt before climbing to the final belay. This pitch is reasonably moderate, and moderately runout.

Descend via a contrived rappel to the East, or walk off North, then scramble East or walk West and then around the base of the south side and back to your starting point.

Protection 

This route can be lead on bolts alone if you don't mind runouts, but taking a light rack will be more secure. If you want to do the OW option for P1, take a set of large cams.

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James and I in the middle of the route.