Pitch two with it's classic triangular-shaped roof
Description
Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be much easier to find and prepare for. For those climbing at the grade, it should not be missed!
Climb and Descent: See topo available at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html. Note that two 60-meter ropes are required to descend!
This climb will take significantly longer to complete than routes of comparable difficulty with bolts. Make sure you are climbing solidly at the grade and allow enough time for you to complete the climb and return to your car.
Protection
All gear. Note that while the first ascentionist's rating is 5.10a/b, I found the climb to be slightly harder at the crux.
Perhaps the real crux is getting to the route. If you follow the fence line alone the wash to the left (don't go thru the gate and up the normal trail to rockfellers)and work your way back to the climb staying in the wash you will eventually come to it, make sure you have a good photo of it as this is the guaranteed way to identify it
Squaretop
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