By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Feb 16, 2010 rating: 5.10
| Climbed this route today and was very disappointed at how closely packed in this climb is between its neighboring routes. The climbing is fairly interesting in the first two pitches, but its squashed-in nature takes its appeal away (for me). One benefit this climb may have is to serve as a passing lane for Peacemaker when it's crowded.
To add to the description by the OP:
Approach: From the point where the approach trail ends at the base of Absinthe of Mallet, head right. You will pass under Peacemaker after about 75 feet; it is easily distinguished by the row of bolts headed up a slab on its first pitch. Continue past Peacemaker and head uphill past a boulder on your right. The trail turns back toward the face and leads to a large staging area under Ides of Middlemarch. Drop your packs here. Rack up and scramble up and left to a ledge. Two bolt lines depart from this ledge, you will follow the left one.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 115’): Climb easy terrain past several overlaps. The terrain steepens after a bulge and becomes more difficult (5.10). Follow the bolts up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 120’): Follow bolts upward on 5.7-5.9 terrain. A short, easy runout leads to a dike and more bolts. Continue up a few harder slab moves (5.10) to the left of a prominent brown stain. Continue to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.10, 200’): Pull a few difficult moves right from the belay (5.10), then sling a chickenhead and pick up a bolt line to the left of a prominent crack. Pull through some 5.10 slab and arrive at a stance as the angle backs off. Keep to the right (ignore the bolts on Peacemaker within easy reach). Climb up an easy crack and place a few pieces of gear passing two more bolts. Pull over an easy bulge and run it out 30 feet on easy terrain to a belay just right of a prominent tree.
There are a variety of endings available for this climb. At this time I don't think this climb has an independent ending; I'm pretty sure that the description in the OP is for the ending of Mad Cow Disease (one could also finish on Stampede, Ides, or Peacemaker). To continue as described in the OP, use these directions:
Transfer the belay up and left about 40’ to a two bolt anchor shared with Peacemaker.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 80’): From the belay anchor choose the bolt line to your right. Climb past 5 bolts, place a piece of gear, and then climb up a short, grungy crack to a two bolt anchor on your left.
Pitch 5: (5.10, 80’): Climb the bolt line up and left past five bolts on tricky slab (around 10c). Continue on easy terrain up and right past two more bolts to the summit.
Rack: Few pieces are needed for this heavily bolted line; I'd suggest a light rack of cams including 1" and 3.5". An assortment of cams < 1" is helpful for the easy crack on pitch 3.
The topo for the southwest face of Sheepshead has been updated to include this route: http://www.geir.com/sheepshead sw.pdf |