Contrary to rc.com, I think the crux is near the top of the second pitch; protected with a pin.
P1. 5.7-5.9; poor rock quality-crack or face to right-facing crack/off-width with a slight (bolt protected) traverse up and left to shrub/tree position for belay (two old bolts/hangers).
P2. 5.9+; the "money" pitch. Thin face start to crack/off-width/chimney climbing. Protects well. Piton at the crux. Stop at fixed slings ca. 200 feet.
P3. 5.8-5.9; continue up crack to what looks like (but is not)a roof. Standard route is the traverse right to a 5.6 crack (with nice positioning and great exposure) and then up run-out face on plates (~ 210 ft). A variation listed in the guide book is left at the overhang.
P4. 5.5-5.6 face climbing to the "great ledge".
P5. Original pitch is an awkward, overhanging off-width. There are numerous (I count four) bolted face climbs to reach the summit.
IMHO, for P1 ignore rc.com and: 1) either skirt the bulge to the right, or 2) do the bolted (harder) start. The bulge is protected with a scary bolt and hanger.
Definitely an "adventure" route, 5.9 climbers heads-up.
Great exposure and positioning on pitch 3 (and a bit run-out)!
Location
Continue up trail from peacemaker (about 120 feet).
There are several variations for the start; there is a right-leaning easy crack, a harder bolted face (down and around to the right), and the original start, I presume, that I have apparently not done. Check the Toofast topo (see comments from Geir below) for more route info.
This climb has a walk off.
Protection
Standard rack. A few old hangers on pitch 1 and for the belay for pitch two (note; the fixed hangers for the belay are suspect). Pitch 3 belay has (2) fixed pitons with slings. A fixed cam on pitch 3 protects the traverse (if you do the standard variation; you can also add supplementary gear). Build your own belay for pitch 4 in a crack/dish ~ 200 ft. Pitch 5 has options; awkward crack or bolted face climbs.
The final pitch still has 3 or 4 large loose blocks on it. They are dangerous and SHOULD NOT BE KNOCKED OFF because they will take anything out in their path (climbers, dogs, vegetation, bolts, etc...) A better alternative is to do a short 4th class traverse to the final pitch of the Peacemaker.
Although I have been on this climb three times, it appears that I have never done the first pitch, as intended by the developers (I saw a recent topo that confirms my suspicions).
And, although I have not been on the climb in perhaps two years, I have heard that the route has new anchors; not sure if each pitch has been equipped or now. Anyone have any specific info on this?
By Mike Diesen From: Sierra Vista, AZ May 19, 2008
Route has been significantly improved. The roof at the first pitch is now protected by 3 new bolts and once over the roof a new 2 bolt direct has been added that is probably 10a. However you can still do the standard route. Each belay now has 2 bolt chain anchors. Very much improved. Due to dangerously loose blocks don't do the final pitch. Finish on Peacemaker. Give it a try. You won't be disappointed.
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