Geir on the fifth pitch. Shawn, Geir, and I had a...
Description
A well-thought-out and fun route on the far right side of Sheepshead. This climb has a wide variety of climbing, including chimney, crack, face, and slab, making it interesting and challenging at the grade. It even has an unusual and fun descent.
Below is a rough description of each pitch. The ratings, bolt counts, and pitch lengths are first impressions only, and may not be accurate.
Pitch 1 (50 feet, 5.8) -- climb up past two bolts and a few traditional placements to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (120 feet, hard 5.9) -- make a hard move to the right, clipping a bolt. Then climb up past one more bolt to a nice crack. Continue up the crack, staying to your left at a bulge, where the crack widens to a short chimney. At the top of the chimney bear right and climb up past a few more bolts to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up on a slightly run-out, but easy terrain to a series of bolts. Continue along the bolts until the climb bears left to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (140 feet, 5.9) -- climb up and right past bolts and interesting face climbing. After about 5 bolts, the climbing eases off a bit to lower angle climbing. Pass over a diagonal crack which takes some gear and continue up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings. Note that this anchor is one of the rappel stations for the descent.
Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up past two bolts and into a chimney. The chimney narrows to offwidth as you climb higher and face holds appear on your left. Move on to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.
Descent: -From the end of pitch 5, rappel 100' to the anchor for pitch 4. -From the pitch 4 anchor, rappel straight down about 80' to an anchor on your right. -Rappel from this anchor 100' to a large ledge with a lot of vegetation. -Scramble down and climber's left about 30' to another anchor. -From this anchor, rappel 105' straight down to the steep gully, where you will find yet another anchor. -From here, single-rope rappel down the gully about 70 feet. Scramble to your packs.
Be aware that the second to the last rappel is pretty long. Two ropes are advised.
Location
Approach: while walking up the hill toward Sheepshead, keep an eye out for a cairn marking a trail heading to the right. After a minute, the trail deposits you into a wash which heads up toward the right side of Sheepshead. Continue up the wash until you are between Sheepshead and Carnivore Pinnacle (the next formation to the right). You will see the bolts for the beginning of Stampede on your left. Continue up 50 feet or so to a large dead tree. The route starts in a gully to the left of this tree.
Protection
Gear and bolts, approximately 50% bolt protected. All anchors are bolted.
This is a great route and the second pitch is interesting as do not be decieved and try the right side of the bulging rock. Lots of differnt stuff. On the rap look closely to climbers left for the third and fourth set of hangers (more like 20 feet and not 10ft
A great route with a wide variety of climbing. 16 draws, a couple slings for chicken heads on the last pitch and a full set of cams (couple small but mostly medium to large) is all that is needed.
By Meghan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Jul 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
Great route!! Sustained and diverse 5.9. Every pitch is different and none are much easier than 9.
The Sheepshead
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