Two new routes of good quality begin about 50 feet to the right of the start of Ides of Middlemarch. Look for a small staging area and a 20 foot face with a bolt about 12 feet from the ground. The two routes appear to share the same first two pitches.
Topos for these two routes, as well as the updated, newly bolted Ides of Middlemarch, will soon be available at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 130'): Follow 8 bolts up and arching to the right to a two bolt anchor. Another line of bolts approach the same anchor from the left.
Pitch 2 (5.10+, 90'): Follow 6 bolts up steep and difficult terrain. The angle backs off to slab; follow three more bolts to a ledge. From here, you can climb up one of two ways:
a) Traverse left on the ledge about 20 feet to a two bolt anchor:
Pitch 3a (120', 5.10a): A very interesting pitch. Pull over a bulge following two bolts, then traverse right walking on a beautiful arch. At the top of the arch follow more bolts up left and up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4a (150', 5.7): Follow tradionally-protected discontinuous cracks and bulges straight up to a two bolt anchor. This anchor is just below the large ledge from which ides, stampede, mad cow disease, peacemaker, etc. all continue.
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b) Alternatively, you can traverse right at the ledge at the end of pitch 2:
Pitch 3b) This appears to be a long 5.10.
Pitch 4b) Easy, runout bolted pitch finishing near the end of pitch 4a.
I'll post more details on this second route later.
Protection
Bolts and gear. A light rack will do for most climbers who can do the lower pitches.
The Sheepshead
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