Contrary to rc.com, I think the crux is near the top of the second pitch; protected with a pin.
P1. 5.7-5.9; poor rock quality-crack or face to right-facing crack/off-width with a slight (bolt protected) traverse up and left to shrub/tree position for belay (two old bolts/hangers).
P2. 5.9+; the "money" pitch. Thin face start to crack/off-width/chimney climbing. Protects well. Piton at the crux. Stop at fixed slings ca. 200 feet.
P3. 5.8-5.9; continue up crack to what looks like (but is not)a roof. Standard route is the traverse right to a 5.6 crack (with nice positioning and great exposure) and then up run-out face on plates (~ 210 ft). A variation listed in the guide book is left at the overhang.
P4. 5.5-5.6 face climbing to the "great ledge".
P5. Original pitch is an awkward, overhanging off-width. There are numerous (I count four) bolted face climbs to reach the summit.
IMHO, for P1 ignore rc.com and: 1) either skirt the bulge to the right, or 2) do the bolted (harder) start. The bulge is protected with a scary bolt and hanger.
Definitely an "adventure" route, 5.9 climbers heads-up.
Great exposure and positioning on pitch 3 (and a bit run-out)!
Location
Continue up trail from peacemaker (about 120 feet).
There are several variations for the start; there is a right-leaning easy crack, a harder bolted face (down and around to the right), and the original start, I presume, that I have apparently not done. Check the Toofast topo (see comments from Geir below) for more route info.
This climb has a walk off.
Protection
Standard rack. A few old hangers on pitch 1 and for the belay for pitch two (note; the fixed hangers for the belay are suspect). Pitch 3 belay has (2) fixed pitons with slings. A fixed cam on pitch 3 protects the traverse (if you do the standard variation; you can also add supplementary gear). Build your own belay for pitch 4 in a crack/dish ~ 200 ft. Pitch 5 has options; awkward crack or bolted face climbs.
The final pitch still has 3 or 4 large loose blocks on it. They are dangerous and SHOULD NOT BE KNOCKED OFF because they will take anything out in their path (climbers, dogs, vegetation, bolts, etc...) A better alternative is to do a short 4th class traverse to the final pitch of the Peacemaker.
Although I have been on this climb three times, it appears that I have never done the first pitch, as intended by the developers (I saw a recent topo that confirms my suspicions).
And, although I have not been on the climb in perhaps two years, I have heard that the route has new anchors; not sure if each pitch has been equipped or now. Anyone have any specific info on this?
this climb has been retrofitted with bolts and is significantly improved. however, the first pitch is now more difficult than 5.9, it's probably 10a/b.
i'm working on a combined topo for ides its two neighboring climbs to the right. they should be available at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html before the summer.
By Mike Diesen From: Sierra Vista, AZ May 19, 2008
Route has been significantly improved. The roof at the first pitch is now protected by 3 new bolts and once over the roof a new 2 bolt direct has been added that is probably 10a. However you can still do the standard route. Each belay now has 2 bolt chain anchors. Very much improved. Due to dangerously loose blocks don't do the final pitch. Finish on Peacemaker. Give it a try. You won't be disappointed.
The Sheepshead
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