Pitch 1 of Peacemaker, mostly bolted route that st...
Description
Approach: ~1 hour Time to climb Route: 4-7 hours Descent: 1.25 hours
The Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Erp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.
Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most sustained, IMO. All pitches offer climbing at or near the 5.10a level. Most of the cruxes are slab moves and well protected. There are only a few sections that could be called runout, but all on easy ground (5.6ish). One thing to keep in mind is that just because the bolt line is railroad straight doesn't mean the climbing is. Often you'll climb left or right and step back to clip the bolts.
P1: 50m, 5.10a slab climbing past a small lip for 9 bolts. Slight runout 2/3rd of the way up. Follow the last 3 bolts up left into the chimney. The finish is on some steep ground with a little chimney move. 12 bolts, good stance belay
P2: Shorter pitch, 5.10a. Follow the bolts up the arete past several roofs with jug holds to another good stance. Awesome pitch with fun moves!
P3: Longer pitch, 5.10a up and right following the bolts. The climbing is easier to the right of the bolt line. It is possible to skip a clip or two here and stay on the easier ground to the right, but don't fall then. Finish the pitch on a bear hug of two cracks to another good stance belay
P4: IMO the crux pitch, 5.10a. Start right up the overhang from the belay and the crux is the multiple slab sections above. Look for hidden face holds. Probably harder for short people. Finishes on a great ledge right of a tree/bush
P5: Short and easier pitch. 5.10a moves off the ledge past several bolts left of the tree above, then suddenly very easy climbing leads to a gigantic ledge with bolts all over the place.
P6: 50m, <=5.10a. The original route follows the bolts up from the anchors slightly to the left. The far left route at the shuts is Stampede and those last two pitches go at 5.10d and 5.10c. The right hand line of bolts from the anchor is the last 2 pitches of Mad Cow Disease (5.10d)
P7: Can be linked with P6 with a 60m rope. Several final bolts to the top 2 bolt anchors. Continue up on 3rd class to summit and sign the register marked by an elaborate cairn pile.
Location, Topo, & Beta Pics
Located 50' right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50' until you see the obviouse slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Walk-off down the descent gully on the left (North) marked with cairns.
14 draws / short slings Optional very light rack: nuts, small to #2 camalot Most people will skip the rack
All anchors are bomber Metolious Rap bolts (except at the top of P5, which are regular bolts, but right next to some shuts if you really wanted to rap)
Definitely a nice route. A lot more frictiony than TTTD and without any real runouts. As far as rack goes, I used a couple of small aliens to calm me down but nothing any bigger. Probably not worth bothering with a rack though.
By Phil Persson From: Golden, Colorado Jan 23, 2008
Great Route; did this on 1-21-08, Every pitch is excellent, some moderately tricky, balancy face moves on PI and PIV and some mild runout's keep things interesting for sure, and the feeling of exposure being up there is incredible. We did this in 7 pitches but in hindsight you can easily link P6 and P7 into one long pitch with a 60 or 70M rope. Very well bolted for the most part, a few runouts on easy chickenhead hiking which can optionallyh be protected by slinging small chickenheads or throwing in some small pieces [only piece I placed was a .5 camalot on PI]. Overall a stellar route; definitely recommend it... now to give 'Too tough to Die" and "Ewephoria' a try.. :)
If this grade is near your limit, I'd recommend a single set of cams up to #1 BD and a set of nuts. There's maybe 4-6 placements across the first few pitches, YMMV. The climbing is great, maybe my fave on the buttress. First time I did it, I was struck by how much of the climbing is at grade, seemed like at least half of the moves on the route were 5.10 or 10-.
some comments on the 4th pitch (SPOILERS), If you stay 5' left at the "crux" bulge and follow the line of weakness the moves are 5.8 including an obvious 'no hands rest' where an onsight leader would have placed a protection bolt. The leader should skip the bolt above the blank section as it is a "sucker" bolt (obviously not placed on stance) and then trend right over to the 2nd bolt above the skipped one (still, pulling the leader right whereas the weakness is obviously 3' left of that bolt). Other than the fun 2nd pitch, a horribly overbolted line with numerous clean gear placements obscured by bolts and filled holes.
Pitch 4: When the leader reaches a short gully with some sticks and dirt in it they are at the last bolt and should continue straight up to the anchors. There is a route to the right of Peacemaker that comes very near and could tempt the leader to follow that line of bolts. Pitch 6-7: Very easy to link up these two pitches with a 60 meter. There are many routes up here and I think I may have finished on a different route. But they are all 5.10. Very fun route and the bolts protected it well.
By Vinnie Boudreaux From: Tucson, Az Jan 31, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
No rack needed whatsoever. I agree that pitch 4 is the probably the toughest, but every pitch has climbing at the grade.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Mar 16, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
haha rick, come on, man! i thought this climb was excellent! the climbing is stellar and the runouts on easy ground (assuming you don't bring any gear) really keep you on your toes!
The Sheepshead
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