Ewephoria 

There's a typo in the description; it goes up the south side of Sheepshead. (towards the far west end of the south face)

I think Christian is turned around. Ewephoria is on the north face of Sheepshead and starts in the large descent gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead.

Sorry I was under the impression the main face of Sheepshead (where Absinthe and Ides are) faced directly south, but I guess it's more southwest, which I guess would make the gully where Ewephoria starts northwest facing..

The easiest way to find this climb is to think of the Sheepshead as a clock, the face visible from the parking area with Absinthe, Peacemaker and Ides is roughly 6 o'clock. Ewephoria is at about 9 o'clock.

I've done this a couple times, and each time I am surprised at how slippery and technical I find the first pitch. After the first trad pitch, it's a relative cruise (except for one move off a ledge with a bolt that won't protect your ankles). Good clean fun, and the wild alternate finish is definitely recommended. The chimney is easier, but half scrambling and half chimney. It does have some bolts near the top of the chimney if you stay out of the back.

If you're not completely sure where the route starts, you can hike a little more up the trail and see the anchors from the side.

This a really fun and satisfying climb. I like that it 'summits' and that it has a lot of nice variation. That said, this is a sand bag rated at 5.7 and if you believe the 1st pitch is 5.5 then I'd like to talk to you about a land deal. I would excercise caution when recomending this 1st pitch to less experienced trad leaders. Now having said that I would still give this climb a bunch of stars and highly recommend it to anyone ready for it. The last pitch up the final head wall though harder and short is still a real grin fest.

I agree with Phil on his comment about this climb being sandbagged. Pitch one is NOT a 5.5. It is more difficult than 2, 3 & 4. I recommend 12-15 draws. On the bolted pitches, small pro and slings can be used between bolts if you are uncomfortable with a little runout. The last pitch of Too Tough to Die is a MUST! Great views - great climb!

The first pitch of this climb protects well but is harder than 5.7. The route starts up a gully thats mostly in the shade so the slab can be wet a long time after rain.

Haven't led the first pitch yet but on parts of it the rock is very water-polished, which adds to the difficulty. I'd guess at least solid 5.8 on lead.

i climbed this a few days ago and on the last pitch we climbed a bolted line that started at the base of the chimney and went up and left - clipping the last slab bolt on the Too tough to die variation. anyone else done this ending - i was curious about a consensus on the rating?

Hey Matt,

I asked Geir Hundal today and he said about 5.8.

http://www.geir.com/ewephoria.pdf

Hope you're enjoying Tucson.

Cheers

I would simply rate the climb 5.8 and recommend it. The first pitch is old awkward 5.8. The variation last pitch to the left and above the anchor is quite fun.

This is a great climb. If you finish on the last pitch of Too Tough To Die, you get five diverse quality pitches. Had as much fun on this as I did on TTTD, Absinthe, and Peacemaker.

As for grades, I'll go against the tide. I think you want to have a solid 5.9 leader in your team to put this one up safely. Just another opinion from the peanut gallery.

Must do climb.

::Spoiler beta ahead; beware!:: Lots of buzz here about p1 and it's all justified. First of all, it's only 5.6-7 to the stronghold paladins of old that were climbing it as the earth cooled. That said, I call it 8 and say it protects well but would 2nd the idea to send up a solid 5.9 trad rat to lead it.

The two general strategies for p1 are to stem out (with good rubber) to the flaring opposed walls where friction is to be found, or to brave the slick innards of the gully where toe jams provide the footholds. Either way, the placements are solid but not terribly deep in most cases. Bring a few bd 2's and 1's (or equal). I don't recall if i even placed a three but definitely leave anything bigger than that in the trunk. Sling CH after 2nd to last bolt on p2 to tame slab runout (thanks Scott for pointing it out after i missed it!).

As mentioned above, there's a creepy R move just before boilers on p3. All in all, odd pitches should probably be done by solid 5.9 leader. Good shade up till noon on the whole route so start it early during the summer. Geir's topo is spot on, btw; thanks Geir!