Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While there is certainly something for everyone in this vast area, those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing here in the Dragoon Mountains.
The amount of climbing in Cochise Stronghold is absurd, and most of the rock is of outstanding quality. Many super classic routes, put up by pioneering young climbers since the 1970's, ascend the various spires and domes in the area. Most of the quality crack climbs in Southern Arizona are found here, as are some of the longest routes in this part of the state. Many of these routes are difficult, committing, and very runout. If you cant climb them this way, go climb something else. Though bolts have made their way into the Stronghold, placing fixed gear here is still frowned upon. Additionally, this area is of great cultural significance to many people. Treat it with due respect.
Climbing is Cochise Stronghold is a true backcountry experience. The remote setting, coupled with the committing nature of many of the climbs here, require preparation beyond that of roadside cragging on Mt Lemmon. The terrain is rugged and maze-like, and it is generally easier to get lost than to get where you are going. Allow plenty of time for approaches and err on the side of caution.
While current closures do not effect the Sheepshead Area, a large portion of the climbing in Cochise Stronghold is closed annually for raptor nesting. Current closures are from February 15 - June 30 and include the entire Rockfellow Group and What's My Line Dome. Check with the Forest Service for changes and current closures.
For more information and some interesting background on Cochise Stronghold, see Bob Kerry's guide 'Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona.'
Getting There
From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road north. Make the first right turn on a dirt road that leads past a windmill to the road's end. Park and hike across the grassy field to the obvious domes.
Approach: ~1 hourTime to climb Route: 4-7 hoursDescent: 1.25 hoursThe Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Erp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most s...[more]
Well, you have to follow the sun. Obviously the east facing cliffs are going to get sun first and shade last. So the rckfellow groups east side is an option in the morning....ex: "forest lawn" etc....The Out of towners dome should be good in the AM..And the wasteland dome should be an okay AM hit. .Whats my line dome should be okay earlyish....PM climbing would consist of the west side of the Rockfellow group ex :"End game", "days of future passed"...Climbs Like "absinthe of mallet" at the sheepshead would have to wait till at least noon I would think. I would recommend following the sun around the Rockfellow group. If it is a windy day it doesn't matter how much sun ya got when your 600' + up...its still gonna be pretty cold..If I were there I'd be out no matter what...Cochise is the best..have fun
Euphoria, I believe this is how it is spelled, is a "Great Moderate Route " well protected with natural pro and fixed where you need it most ! Don't know the rating yet, but was told the 1st p is 5.5+ with some 5.8 above.Also found a chaulk bag on the 3rd pitch ledge. If anyone cares to have it back they can contact me at andypeters520@msn.com.
"Residents and guests may fly into the Tucson or Sierra Vista airports by private jet, then drive in. Or enjoy a personal limousine or helicopter escort to the property."
Damn where I'd put that helicopter of mine?
"Welcome to Bachmann Springs, a tabernacle of well-being"
-where body, mind, soul and spirit can live in peace and harmony -a place of great spiritual tranquility -where prejudice does not exist -where people can value humankind and find a sanctum for the lights of their lives "
If you gotsta a helicopter, then we won't be prejudiced against you hahaha...who writes this crap?
Several years ago I met the guy who owns / owned a ranch nearby and learned quite a bit of history about the area, and was digging thru old photos and found this one. http://www.flickr.com/photos/miamitom/1137901230/ And one of the obvious things I learned was why they called it Sheeps' Head ... ;) Once you 'get it' it's unmistakable ... had no idea it was a great climb ... cool to see you folks enjoy it. There is a hill nearby called Haberstock Hill that has a US Geo marker on the top, no real challenge for climbers but provides a nice view of the area in all directions.
So I am headed to meet some people at the Sheepshead Sunday morning. I have never been to the Stronghold and don't really feel like missing a turn (not that the listed mp directions are necessarily insufficient). I am trying to find the best directions I can, but it's difficult to tell what those are ahead of time. If anyone wouldn't mind writing the best directions they have I would greatly appreciate that. Thanks -Dan
Are you meeting in the parking area or at the dome? Cuz it would be easier for you to meet in the parking area and hike out together. The directions to the parking area on this site are spot on. Do not take a low clearance vehicle like a Civic on the roads if there has been any rains, we had a Malibu and bottomed out frequently on the way to the Sheepshead/Isle of You. So park at the north area of the parking "lot" for Sheepshead where the barbed wire fence has a gate. Go through the gate, closing it behind you, and trend north on the trail until you get to another barbed wire fence which will parallel the trail towards the Sheepshead. This is what it will look like at that point: http://mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/1059>>>>> Follow the trail for 15 minutes or so up some hills and eventually down and back up out of a wash. You will see the dome up and to the left. The trail then goes through another fence gate, and winds its way up towards the dome. There are several spur trails and it probably doesn't matter which you take, but follow the cairns and it will get pretty steep/scrambly. At that point you are in full view of the dome and won't get lost. Once you get to the base, orient yourself to what climb you came up upon first, which will probably be Peacemaker. Kerry's backcountry guide and the Falcon guide to AZ are good, and print out the info on the climbs from this site also. We used a conglomerate of all 3 to find the routes. If you plan on doing Ewphoria, it was a little tricky for us to find based on the written description here, but keep going up the northwest side of the dome and you will find it. What are you planning to do?
Sheepshead Area (Southwest)
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
