The Sheepshead, this area's namesake, is the huge sweeping dome visible during most of the drive in on Middlemarch Road. It is by far the most prominent and aesthetic piece of rock in the immediate area, though there are a multitude of quality routes on the smaller neighboring domes.
Over 40 routes ascend this vast expanse of granite, most being of moderate to high difficulty (5.9-5.11, Class III). There are some incredible multi-pitch climbs with fantastic exposure. The rock quality is great for the most part, but does contain the occasional loose feature. Routefinding is generally difficult, even with a good topo. Expect scary climbing and frequent runouts on moderate terrain.
For those willing to put in a full, committing day, The Sheepshead offers true adventure climbing.
Getting There
From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road north. Make the first right turn on a dirt road that leads past a windmill to the road's end. Park and hike across the grassy field toward the obvious domes.
When you approach the treeline across the grassy field, trend right toward a major drainage, keeping south of the smaller hills. A trail should vaguely follow this drainage course, leading up the valley below The Sheepshead. If you cannot pick up a trail, just follow the path of least resistance. Make sure you close any gates you may pass along the way.
The trail/drainage course will take you to a point directly under but far below the base of the dome. At this point, a small climber's trail will head off right, up the slope towards Sheepshead. Navigate the brush and slabs up to the base of the climbs.
Unless you know where you are going and are a fast party, allow at least an hour and a half for the approach. Plan for a long day.
Approach: ~1 hourTime to climb Route: 4-7 hoursDescent: 1.25 hoursThe Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Erp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most s...[more]
Scott was prescient and knew that someday we'd be doing Absinthe in the morning and shooting a round of golf just down the road in the afternoon..:-)
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Dec 19, 2007
Better / Faster approach: Nice and fast mostly flat trail that avoids the sticker bushes and any bushwacking.
When driving down the last stretch of road past the water tanks, stay left and park by the barb wire gate with the reflective sign. There is a super well traveled trail starting at this gate all the way to the Sheepshead. Go through the gate (close it behind you!) and follow this trail across the grassy field. You'll pass a cattle water tub within the first couple hundred yards. You'll eventually cross the wash and end up on another grassy field. Finally you'll come to a second barb wire gate. Go through and close it behind you. You'll be right at the start of the steep section that is well marked with cairns.
You really can't get lost on this trail, it is that well traveled. Takes about 30-45 minutes to reach Absinthe of Mallet this way. It is very very noticable from anywhere on the Sheepshead.
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