pitch 1, gain the starting block by walking around its right side and fourth class up 10m to a point to rope up. Climb past 1 bolt to a 2 bolt belay (45m, 5.6R). pitch 2, climb straight off belay just right of a roof, through some small overlaps to a giant flake that forms a roof. Turn the roof on right or left (5.10-) to a bolt immediately above. Continue to next bolt (3m above), then down-climb and belay at bolt above roof (using second bolt as safety). pitch 3, climb past high belay bolt past a second bolt @ 5m then around corner to left then runout 5.8 leads to third bolt and belay. pitch 4 climb up to next bolt, then left to 3 1/2 friend/#3 camalot placement then above crack to last bolt and very grainy summit moves (5.9). Belay in 'bowls'. Note: The FA team originally did this with 2 bolts only. the second ascent (JS) added two where "if you had fallen, you would have died". there were 10 bolts in 1993.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Jan 14, 2009 rating: 5.10- R
Just completed this route today, and had a lot of fun. To add to rick's description, I'd suggest the following:
To reach the start of the climb, scramble up the ramp to the left of the start of Welcome to the Machine. At the top of the ramp it is possible to build an anchor with .5"-2" gear.
Pitch 1 (130', 5.6R). Climb up and slightly left from the belay and pass a bolt after about 30'. (This is the last bolt on a variation that extends from Endgame to the first pitch of Welcome to the Machine). From here head left and up 40' along featured but runout terrain. You will find a few stopper placements as the climb passes the end of the first pitch of Endgame about 10' to your left. Continue 20' up to a beefy 3/8" bolt (Endgame crosses Poetry here). From here go straight up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (105', 5.9). This is an excellent pitch. From the anchor step left to a weakness and follow it up approximately 10'. Make a tenuous step right to a second feature that leads to a small roof. Both of these features protect with nuts. Pass the right side of the roof and continue straight up toward a large roof. I suggest stepping right to the belay for the second pitch of Endgame at this point. Although the original route belays above the roof, the Endgame belay station is more comfortable and has much newer bolts. Unfortunately, the upper half of this pitch has lost some of its commitment due to the proximity of the bolted routes on either side.
Pitch 3 (60', 5.10aR). Assuming you belayed at the Endgame anchors, continue up to the large roof. Place a #3 or #4 camalot just below the roof on the right side. Make a move up past the right side of the roof (10a, ignore the bolts a few feet to the right) and move left on to the awkward ledge. Reach very high from the ledge to a bolt. Step left around the arete and make a few moves up to a second bolt (the original route uses these two bolts to belay). From the second bolt, make a move or two up, and then traverse left about 20' to some chickenheads. The traverse is easy save an early 5.9/10a move. Climb up the chickenheads (5.8) to a two bolt anchor. The original anchor was a single bolt and the chickenheads, however, it is now a two bolt anchor shared with a bolted line left of Poetry.
Pitch 4 (190', 5.10aR). The original route headed up and right to the ledge at the end of pitch 4 of Welcome to the Machine. Since the original route was put up, an alternative ending was established. This description is for the alternative finish. From the anchor head slightly left and up about 15' to a bolt with a leeper hanger (5.8). Continue straight up another 30' to a small bulge and a second bolt with a leeper hanger (hard 5.8 near the bulge). I was unable to locate the 3" cam placement as in rick's description above. I continued up and left for 50-60 feet of unprotected but easy slab to a third bolt (5.7RRR). Take a moment to clean your shorts. Continue up and left a few feet to the edge of an alcove, then climb up to a bolt on its right side. Just above the bolt, make a hard move on some grainy rock (10a), and head up on easier terrain to the top of End Pinnacle. Body belay in the deep bowls on top of the pinnacle. A large chickenhead can be tied as a backup.
This climb has multiple runouts and scarce gear. Where gear is available, it can be tricky to place. While this climb is a lot of fun, make sure you are climbing solidly before attempting it.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Jan 21, 2009 rating: 5.10- R
A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:
"My recollection of the second pitch is that it was a ropestretcher finishing with a long diagonal traverse to a single bolt in a chickenhead patch. Several parties climbed the steep section above the block overhang to the airy last bolt and insanely decided to belay there! We did a third pitch to hit the base of Days last pitch and exited that way. With all the bolts hither and yon, I bet it is confusing as hell up there! Clean as a canvas when I passed that way. Great route!"
I guess when I did it nothing else existed and it was cool passing through that section of the vacant wall. Now, there seem to be a lot of other options (spoiling?) on the route.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Sep 6, 2009 rating: 5.10- R
It appears based on Steve Grossman's description that the fourth pitch was not part of the FA. Who originally lead pitch 4?
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