BETA PHOTO: Days of Future follows the crack that splits the l...
Description
Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation. Thanks to Scott Ayers for correcting some of my faulty memories.
Pitch 1: The crack doesn't quite reach the ground so you have to start to the left, up to a bolt, and then traverse right to the main crack. Depending on how tall you are (I'm 6'6" so my ratings are all very suspect) this is anywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10b. A little tension will get you through this if you can't make the reach. Once in the main crack, chimney up and then use chickenheads on the right to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so - the difficulty is not really 10b but the runouts above make the route quite serious. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (160', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)
Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (5.8+)
Pitch 3: Climb steep face past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). This is almost R rated - there are 3 bolts in 120' of climbing. Last time I led this I wussed out to the chimney on the right after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. (120', 5.8+)
Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up. This one has never bothered me much though.
Descent: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!
Protection
You'll need some slings for chickenheads on P1 and perhaps an extra #2 - #3 camalot for P2. Hexes work well on this pitch.
I've done this route twice and it is a great adventure. There was an inspiring photo of this climb in Climbing Mag some time in the early 80's.
You can approach from the east or west. It's shorter from the east but rougher. You might think a pinnacle would have a pointy summit, but the summit is covered by very large potholes which may be filled by water, or even ice if you climb it in January. Even the descent is fun (figuring it out). Adventure climbing at its best. The runouts aren't too scary, go for it!
By brad schierer From: your imagination Jul 18, 2006 rating: 5.10b PG13
also if you want to wuss out you can escape to Endgame and finish on that route. The real rated R part comes on pitch 4 when if you were to land on the ledge after the HUGE runout. Pitch 3 is necky but looks like a clean fall.
Definitely an adventure! Climb: On the first pitch, a #6 protects the first bolt clip and the chimney. I bootied a #6 two days prior to climbing Days...the lead was happy to have it! Decent: At the bottom of the second rap, you will follow a ramp downward. It can be dark, so bring a headlamp! You will scramble up to a hole (light is visible) leading to the outside of the dome. Rap anchors are directly on the left as you exit the hole.
Double ropes are useful on this climb if you've gotem. This enables you to protect both the crux move and the entry into the slot without having to worry about hosing yourself or your follower.
I would have given this 4 stars except I absolutely hate hanging belays.
Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 are both 115 feet long (i.e. 70 meter rope will do the trick but you still probably want two ropes for the descent).
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Oct 14, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b R
This climb is outstanding. Great climbing, thoughtful protection, and visually striking. A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:
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