Poetry in Motion 

FA:  Steve Grossman, Brad Smith Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10- [details] Length:  4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Views: 196 page views Submitted By: rickd on May 8, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

pitch 1, gain the starting block by walking around its right side and fourth class up 10m to a point to rope up. Climb past 1 bolt to a 2 bolt belay (45m, 5.6R). pitch 2, climb straight off belay just right of a roof, through some small overlaps to a giant flake that forms a roof. Turn the roof on right or left (5.10-) to a bolt immediately above. Continue to next bolt (3m above), then down-climb and belay at bolt above roof (using second bolt as safety). pitch 3, climb past high belay bolt past a second bolt @ 5m then around corner to left then runout 5.8 leads to third bolt and belay. pitch 4 climb up to next bolt, then left to 3 1/2 friend/#3 camalot placement then above crack to last bolt and very grainy summit moves (5.9). Belay in 'bowls'. Note: The FA team originally did this with 2 bolts only. the second ascent (JS) added two where "if you had fallen, you would have died". there were 10 bolts in 1993.

Location 

End Game may cross this route.

Protection 

Stoppers, cams 2" to 3".