Cap'm Pissgums 

RickD - I recall you once calling this "The commensurate hardman route." Did you get any photos when you climbed this?

I think you mean "consummate".

I love this route name. I suppose I'm one of the few who remember the Cap'm.

sorry, no camera that day.

that crux 4th pitch I'd climb every day if it was ground level.

This is from the cover of Zap #3 I think.........

The bolt at the end of the third pitch (the chimney) is not there anymore. It broke when I hanged on it, it must have been from the very first ascent (30+ years ago ?), a piece of history. I had set up a real belay, of course, and only fell 6 inches.

If the crux pitch is really 10+, then I should downgrade all the 10+ I've tried in my life. Including Abra.

Amazing route, my admiration for DB and MA who must have done the first ascent with mostly hexes and nuts.

I agree with Aleix, the crux pitch of Pissgums is 12 number grades harder than the crux of Abra. But I was stupid enough to climb it in shorts with no knee pad and no tape on the right hand. My blood stains should still be on the route in spots.
Pissgums is thee tick in the Stronghold, IMO.

....I think the 3rd corner pitch on Abra is 10c.

Pissgum's pitch is sustained but I found a combo chimney-crack technique worked well- just my style.

but as many know, I come from a long tradition of conservative ratings. (waugh said of me "everything's cake")

Aleix...good work...you should post some more details about how it went.

Thanks John, since there is a request:
The crux pitch kicked my butt. I didn't tape my hand either, but I was following it. The kneepads did make a difference, EFR had strongly suggested them for a better "enjoyment" of the route.

Pitch 1: The hardest thing is to get off the ground... well there is no ground, but stepping over the "bottomless chimney" from the boulder and doing the first moves. Ends in a comfortable belay on gear.
Pitch 2: Grungy rock, interesting moves. Comfortable belay on two bolts.
Pitch 3: The most runout vertical pitch I've ever led. But it feels good, there is nowhere to fall in a squeeze chimney (!?). Half way up it narrows to the point I had to go to the lip and maybe do a couple of offwidth moves. Mostly hanging belay in a palm/fist sized crack.
Pitch 4: I followed it, so ask Eric D for leader account. Gearwise, the crack is palm size all the way. Crack at belay is also palm size.
Pitch 5: The belay on top of pitch 5 is on a horizontal groove-seam with a "shrub", which was definitely my best "anchor" :-) Placed many cams but didn't trust any. Must have been amazing with hexes, hip belay from a groove? :-)
Pitch 6: Committing move to a bolt, two friction moves and you just did Cap'm Pissgums !

If you guys think this is too much beta/talking, let me know and I'll delete this entry.

Bien hecho Alex! Por las fotos se ve de miedo esa ruta!