This dome, and the surrounding 1/4 mile including WML Dome, is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.
Shirley leading pitch 1 of Endgame (Nov. '07).
Description
An amazing, if unlikely line up the SSW side of the End Pinnacle, around the corner from Days of Future Passed. Great, mostly well-protected and airy climbing with a little bit of everything. The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.
P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.
P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.
P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.
P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.
P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.
Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.
Location
The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.
Protection
2 ropes, 15-20 quickdraws, wires, TCUs, small to med cams, slings
One linkup that has been suggested (and looked like a lot of fun) is, instead of busting out right on pitch three, keep following the bolts for Welcome to the Machine (straight up the groove from the alcove), then rejoin Endgame after the fourth pitch of that route. Also, people who had done both the original Days of Future Passed finish and also the Endgame finish to that route unanimously recommended the latter. The 5.8R climbing on Days was, according to them, not worth the additional risk and not as much fun as the last Endgame pitch.
This route is truly a modern classic. Well bolted where you need it and unbolted where you don't. The difference between Days and Endgame is, quite simply, the difference between 'trad' and 'rad'. No need to choose; when you get to the base you will surely want to climb both. The only question is which one to climb first!
The reason to do the original finish to is exactly because it is the original finish. If you've climbed the rest of the route the 5.8 R bit on the last pitch should not be that much of a challenge!!
Rockfellow Dome
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