Knead Me 

FA:  Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972 Type:  Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Views: 339 page views Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.

Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.7 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.

Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.

Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.

Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.

Protection 

A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. #4 camalot is probably the biggest you need.