This dome, and the surrounding 1/4 mile including WML Dome, is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.
The initial slab / chimney
Description
This unique route offers a chance to take non-climbers on a unique adventure. Most climbers would be comfortable soloing this but a belay is a good idea for most.
The crux is finding the correct entry into the dome. This route is immediately left of Abra / Knead Me, between the main dome and Chay Desa Tsay. It is NOT in the much bigger chimey next to End Pinnacle.
There are only two places where a rope need be used. The initial pitch is about 5.3 and follows a ramp / crack into an massive chimney leading into the bowels of the rock. At this point, the chimney becomes an amazing passageway - about 2' wide with a flat bottom and perfectly parallel sides reaching up for over 200'.
Eventually you reach a small chamber in the center of the rock. Stop and enjoy this unique spot! From the chamber, the crack no longer has a flat bottom. You need to chimney up about 10 - 15', then across 20 - 30', and then back down to get to then end of the climbing. There are bolts at either end of this part that would allow you to give beginners a safe belay.
The crack opens up and becomes more broken until you eventually exit the dome. From the south side of the crack you can walk around past End Pillar to the start or climb back through the rock.
You could solo this in about 30 leisurely minutes but bringing non-climbers through is a different story.
According to the rangers, even this route is closed during bird season. What a crock!
Protection
I didn't use any pro except the bolts in the chimney.
We did this climb as an alternate way to get back to the base of Days of Future Passed after completing that route. I didn't feel a rope was needed, but unfortunately we were encumbered by all our gear. Still a really fun adventure, but next time I'd do it with just a pair of knee pads and climbing shoes.
This route would be harder in the opposite direction, I would think.
Warning: this is not a route for the large of girth! Returning to this after 20 years, I no longer fit! I had to back out at the small chockstone.
On the other hand, I now know that you can downclimb out the north end unroped without much fuss - I don't think there's much difference in difficulty either direction.
Rockfellow Dome
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