BETA PHOTO: Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Tr...
Description
Jizzneyland starts just left of 'Isle of You' (the route, not the area) at the obvious arete/break in the rock. Mostly 5.9 climbing with one 5.10 move towards the top, which is well-protected. In fact, the entire route is very well-protected with a bolt nearly every body length. Great climbing on superb stone.
Single-rope rap from 2-bolt anchor gets you back to terra firma.
The lower section is definitely contrived, the upper section is OK.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jan 9, 2008 rating: 5.10
This route is as easy or easier than Stone Woman on the same wall. The route provides a nice mid-way shelf for a rest before heading up and through a short crux.
Nice route and worth climbing while in the area. If 10c is pushing your limits.....try this one.
By Meghan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Jul 4, 2008 rating: 5.10b
The book Rock Climbing Arizona describes this climb as follows: "Jizzneyland (5.10c) Begin right of two large boulders and a right-slanting, left-facing corner. Thin crux edging to the 1st bolt. Continue up right to a small ledge. Climb the headwall above past two 5.10 cruxes to anchors. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Lower off." This sounds EXACTLY like what I did today, but the description above doesn't fit... anybody else do this route lately and know for sure that it was Jizzneyland? The hardest part (for me) was the first twenty feet, which was really thin with small chips to crimp, and the first bolt was VERY far above the ground... in case that rings a bell.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Sep 25, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
One side of the anchor is in desperate need of repair/replacement. 3/8" of threads showing with 1/4" of play in the hanger on the bolt and the whole thing wobbles. Repair links (hammer-shut links) are used on both sides vice quick links or factory anchor assemblies. Cold shuts would even be better than repair links. Anyone know if the FA would have problems with upgrades/repairs?
Hey Daryl, if an anchor or bolt appears to be bad try to tighten the bolt down first. If that doesn't solve the problem then fix it. You don't have to ask permission to fix a bad bolt or anchor. Just make sure you do a good job and everyone will thank you.
You only need to talk to the FA party if you want to dramatically change the location of something or post it on MP.com. (Kidding about the posting part)
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Sep 29, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
Christian and Eric, thanks guys - i just got back in town. The situation is a little beyond tightening things down, i'm afraid, so i'll put this on the todo list. I'm thinking that route was hand drilled judging by some of the bolt angles on the way up. Not trying to gripe here; just an observation. Thanks again, i'll post a follow up when completed.
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