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Jizzneyland 

5.10c

   

FA: M. Strassman?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 391 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Mar 21, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Tr...


Description 

Jizzneyland starts just left of 'Isle of You' (the route, not the area) at the obvious arete/break in the rock. Mostly 5.9 climbing with one 5.10 move towards the top, which is well-protected. In fact, the entire route is very well-protected with a bolt nearly every body length. Great climbing on superb stone.

Single-rope rap from 2-bolt anchor gets you back to terra firma.


Protection 

A dozen or so quickdraws.



Add Photo Photos of Jizzneyland
This was just after clipping the 3rd bolt. It's pretty thin and not super steep. My buddy took the shot at a weird angle, so I rotated it to make sure you could get a good idea of what the climb is like. It's interesting and a lot of fun. There's a good rest point right after this move. <br />

This was just after clipping the 3rd bolt. It's pr...

The bottom is pretty thin, but there's a huge rest in the middle of the route...

The bottom is pretty thin, but there's a huge rest...


Add Comment Comments on Jizzneyland
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 30, 2005

Nice route name

By Chris Dillon
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b

Great climb, and very well protected. I dare you to fall more than 5 feet.

By Danny dubsack
Apr 13, 2006

The lower section is definitely contrived, the upper section is OK.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Jan 9, 2008
rating: 5.10

This route is as easy or easier than Stone Woman on the same wall. The route provides a nice mid-way shelf for a rest before heading up and through a short crux.

Nice route and worth climbing while in the area. If 10c is pushing your limits.....try this one.

By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b

The book Rock Climbing Arizona describes this climb as follows: "Jizzneyland (5.10c) Begin right of two large boulders and a right-slanting, left-facing corner. Thin crux edging to the 1st bolt. Continue up right to a small ledge. Climb the headwall above past two 5.10 cruxes to anchors. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Lower off." This sounds EXACTLY like what I did today, but the description above doesn't fit... anybody else do this route lately and know for sure that it was Jizzneyland? The hardest part (for me) was the first twenty feet, which was really thin with small chips to crimp, and the first bolt was VERY far above the ground... in case that rings a bell.