One of the tougher 5.9 routes you're likely to find. The initial moves seemed more in the 5.10b range. The route starts from the large deck that lies roughly in the middle of the base of Trad Rock. Isle of You is the middle of three lines that start from this deck between the left-hand arete (home of Jizzneyland, 5.10c) and the largish oak on the right-hand. Initial moves are a thin left to right traverse to the first bolt. The second bolt lies in a dishy depression, reached by traversing a bit more up and right. The climb then heads straight up 150' on fun varied face with relatively few rest stances. The small roof about 100' up is a highlight. Descend with 2 ropes or by easy walk off the back.
the initial moves(1st 20') are in the 5.10b range. I have seen several ".9" leaders deck here...watch your step. very balancy traversing moves. Great climb!!
I agrre with the previous comments regarding the difficult start. The routes on this rock are generally inconsistent with ratings, but I think 10a is appropriate. This is the best route on the wall and I highly recommend it!
By Hendrixson From: Tucson, AZ Sep 1, 2007 rating: 5.10a
The first four bolts are challenging for the rating. I opted to stick clip the first bolt and was relieved to reach the second. All in all a great climb.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jan 9, 2008 rating: 5.9
The route may be long but if you break it down, it doesn't have a single move harder than 5.9. It's solid at the grade.
To avoid rope drag either skip the second bolt or back clean it after clipping the 3rd bolt - the route is long an the rope is heavy enough without the z-drag.
If any of you are running an 80 meter rope.... you can lead and lower using it. Otherwise, belay at the top and trail a second cord.
Trad Rock
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