This is a stellar but testy climb and one of the most classic Grossman leads I've belayed (and I've belayed a few of them...)
Rock is good, moves are great but as I recall it's pretty good 5.11 climbing.
This was all hand drilled in one shot. Just as Steve was getting to where I thought deck out was starting to become an issue, he'd stop and drill a bolt (all 3/8") off some pretty sloping foot holds.
I'm not sure I could have drilled some of these bolts off these stances. They're reminiscent of Marty Woerner's routes at Gnt Mnt and Suicide. No wonder, as Marty was an early mentor of Steve's.
Stellar climb if you're climbing 5.11+ face. If 5.11 face is at your limit, this may be a bit runout for you. I do believe it's a safe route, just not a sport route, but certainly sporty.
Second pitch joins the direct start to WML. Runout 5.8 for the second pitch then onto the enjoyable easy ground of WML.
Location
Thrash to true base of the WML wall and find the bolts. As I recall, we started off a ledge somewhere up off the ground by skirting to the left hand side. There is potential for a very hard shorter first pitch on some crispy rock.
Protection
Bolts on first pitch, then slings, etc... of WML. You might want a few nuts to see if you can get anything on the 2nd pitch of WML.
By David Baltz From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Sep 20, 2008 rating: 5.11c R
A devious 5.9 pitch leads up to the actual start on a ledge near the first bolts. This is an excellent thin face start to WML. The "R" section is well above the hard stuff, but still a deck-out potential.
That's right Dave... http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/graphics/page244.jpg I forgot all about that gritty little first pitch. Scritchy mantel as I now think I recall. My lead, you'd think I might remember but relative to the next pitch...
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