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Cochise Dome (WML Dome)
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Let's Make a Deal 
What's My Line Direct 
What's My Line? 

What's My Line Direct 

5.8+ PG13

   

FA: Baker, McEwen
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Views: 533 page views

Submitted By: rickd on May 11, 2007


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Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

While often cited as a "R" route, the first pitch has some options. Approach the right side base of main wall by scrambling. A long "hot dog" shelf has a bolt on left end. If you climb direct to the bolt, it is 5.9+R and might have been the first ascent direction.
pitch 1. Climb ramps to right to gain the "hot dog ledge" and traverse straight left (5.7 PG, about 25') clipping the bolt as you pass. Step down a few moves and continue moving left until you can begin to climb up toward second bolt near short right facing dihedral. Step across dihedral to left and continue to belay BELOW blank-er section on chickenheads.
pitch 2, climb above belay on thinner moves (5.8+, PG) to gain sea of chickenheads on regular route.
pitches 2-3 are mostly the same as regular route, with the last belay on highest good heads on right.
pitch 4, (exit pitches). finish the direct arete, scary 5.7R, climb the middle seam (see WML), or go far left into corner (see WML) to exit.


Location 

right side of main face (right of Grossman's "Let's Make a Deal", a bolted trad line in center of face)


Protection 

Slings and Biners. Stoppers if you think they might work.



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By rickd
Apr 7, 2008

I'd also like to add, that I did the original once (my first time on dome Dannerbeck 1/89) and have done the direct three times (Bimestefer 4/90, Laidlaw 2/94, Decapio 11/95- following the "fatal" party a few days later). I hope some parties will try this route and add some comments to the database.

By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2008

Did the second ascent of this variation back in '77 or '78
(at least according to Axen it was the second) w/ Jim Haisley.

At that time, I thought it was great although I do recall the second pitch being runout but on decent holds.

However, when we did Let's Make a Deal (I say we, it was all Steve, see that route description) and I led this second pitch I thought it was pretty testy. More like runout on slopers, serious 5.8 climbing.

But it's also possible that the way you do this pitch off Let's Make a Deal is different than when you do it from the direct start of WML. Someone more in touch with the belays would have to comment on this.