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The Headwall
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Donamatrix 

5.8+

   

FA: M. Rangel
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 469 page views

Submitted By: manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: The two pitch Donamatrix follows the water stain


Description 

This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways. Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually. Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds. Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you. Use a long sling.


Location 

To find route, walk south about 200yds along trail at base of Headwall til you come to alcove and shallow dihedral with a line of bolts up a waterstreak. From Echo Canyon parking lot, look along headwall to tallest portion, a guano-covered pinnacle marks the left side of the climb.


Protection 

Many bolts, some 1/2" x 7" with a two bolt anchor first pitch; Rap hangers on left for last pitch.



Add Photo Photos of Donamatrix
The whole view of the climb, with Praying Monk just above

BETA PHOTO: The whole view of the climb, with Praying Monk jus...

Donamatrix<br />

Donamatrix


Steeper than it looks.  Tim nearing the top of pitch one.

Steeper than it looks. Tim nearing the top of pit...

Little bit of stemming half way up the shorter second pitch.

Little bit of stemming half way up the shorter sec...


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By Spahle
From: Mesa, Arizona
Apr 23, 2007

One of the belay rappel bolts on top of pitch two is starting to come loose. All three in my party rapped on it and it held fine but I wouldn't trust it by itself. The other bolt is still solid. Other then that it's a great route.

By Joe Lee
From: Mesa, Arizona
Jan 22, 2008

Cool climb. More stemming than you would expect. Climb small notches and nubbins going in all directions making this a thoughtful 5.9. I don't think all the loose stuff has come off yet so climb carefully.