P1: Climb a thin low-angle crack, past bolt and face moves, to a small cluster of dubious little bolts below a bulge (each bolt looking at the other with indignation). Belay at this point, or pull a rockin move to gain a gritty slab. Traverse far left to a couple more substantial bolts for a belay. Linking up these first two pitches might cause horrific rope drag under typical conditions--fortunately this mudfest takes no gear, and your rope will glide effortlessly beneath you. P2: By now your partner's got some misgivings of his/her own. Make a few steps left and climb up a furrow of grey rock with a couple solid bolts. Belay in an alcove above. P3: Scramble to summit (choose your own adventure).
Location
Approximately 100ft left of the Hart Route.
Protection
Some bolts. There may still be a few rattly cobbles to sling.
We tried misgivings last August and were attacked by bees on the first pitch and base of the route. My partners were both stung a couple of times. Have you ever looked down from half way up a pitch to see your belayer running as fast as she can away from you and flailing her hands in the air?
The bolts are sketchy and that one move seems hard though maybe that has to do with the sketchyness and the bloodthirsty killer bees.
RSS Feed
